Cabling without a Cable Needle
This fall I seem to be all about cables! My latest design, Rosewood, features beautiful all-over cabled fabric. It is so glorious watching this fabric develop on your needles. I also have a Karel Cardigan (for me!) on my needles and my upcoming release is also jam packed in cabling. I am undoubtedly in texture-mode.
When I cable, I don’t use a cabling needle. This speeds things up considerably and in general makes for a less fussy process. Last week, I took a couple videos while working on my Karel so that I could share this technique with you. Look below each video for step-by-step written instructions that match up with what’s happening on my needles. The instructions for each directional cross are almost exactly the same; if you can cross cables one way, you can do it the other way, too!
Right-Leaning Cables
To create a right-leaning cable, you’ll typically see instructions with a “B” at the end, to describe moving stitches towards the back of your work. My demo here shows the process within a C4B, but the method is the same no matter how many stitches are included in your cable. In general, performing a cross without a cable needle gets trickier as your cable increases in number of stitches because it is difficult to keep hold of a whole bunch of loose loops. I’ve been working my cables without a cable needle for years and really only whip out that cable needle when I’m crossing upwards of 10 stitches. As a beginner, practice in your swatching and try a 3 to 4 stitch cable (as shown) before you try 6 or 8 stitches.
Work in pattern until you get to the location of your cabled stitches.
Slip the total number of stitches included in your cable to your right-hand needle, purlwise (slipping purlwise preserves the original twist of the stitch). For a C4B, this is 4 stitches.
From the back (wrong side) of your work, insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the first two unworked stitches on your right hand needle.
Place the index finger of your left hand at the base of your cabled stitches on the wrong side and use your thumb to stabilize the loops from the front (right side) of your work.
Slip the two stitches you placed on your left hand needle off of your right hand needle, keeping your thumb on the other two stitches as they slip off the needle, so that they don’t fall apart.
As soon as your right hand needle is emptied of your cabled stitches, move it to the front (right side) of your work and slip it into those two freed stitches. At this point, you’ve got two unworked stitches on your left hand needle and two on your right hand needle.
Finally, slip the two unworked stitches on your right hand needle to your left hand needle.
Now, you’ve crossed your cable and all you need to do is work those four stitches according to your pattern! For the C4B here, they are all knit stitches.
Left-Leaning Cables
To create a left-leaning cable, you’ll see instructions with an “F” at the end, to describe moving stitches to the front of your work. The instructions here are almost identical to a right-leaning cable, but pay attention to when you’re inserting your needle on the right or wrong side of your work, as that will dictate which stitches end up in front of the others and thus determine which way the cable goes.
Work in pattern until you get to the location of your cabled stitches.
Slip the total number of stitches included in your cable to your right-hand needle, purlwise (slipping purlwise preserves the original twist of the stitch). For a C4F, this is 4 stitches.
From the front (right side) of your work, insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the first two unworked stitches on your right hand needle.
Place the index finger of your left hand at the base of your cabled stitches on the wrong side and use it to stabilize the loops from the back of your work.
Slip the two stitches you placed on your left hand needle off of your right hand needle, keeping your index finger on the other two stitches as they slip off the needle, so that they don’t fall apart.
As soon as your right hand needle is emptied of your cabled stitches, move it to the back (wrong side) of your work and slip it into those two freed stitches. At this point, you’ve got two unworked stitches on your left hand needle and two on your right hand needle.
Finally, slip the two unworked stitches on your right hand needle to your left hand needle.
Now, you’ve crossed your cable and all you need to do is work those four stitches according to your pattern! For the C4F here, they are all knit stitches.
There you go! Now you’re ready to get started on an amazing all-over cabled project. It won’t take you long at all to master cable knitting without a cable needle, and you’ll be so happy to not be digging in your couch cushions every time you drop that tiny little cable needle! You can also beef up your cable game by taking a look at my tutorial for crossing cables before performing a decrease; this tip is great for extending those cables as long as possible. Be sure to tag me in your cabley-goodness posts if you use any of these tips, I’d love to see them put into practice!
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