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Measuring your Body for the Best-Fitting Knits
I love teaching my Tailoring Workshop because it enables knitters to make better choices about what size they should knit but more importantly, where and how they should modify garments for a better fit! Before you can learn to modify a garment, it’s essential that you have accurate body measurements. Use this video series to record your own body measurements so that you always have them on hand when choosing a size, and when looking at a schematic to see how it compares to you and your beautiful self! Embrace your body—it’s the only one you’ve got and being accurate when you take these measurements will absolutely reflect in your projects going forward.
Before you Begin
Grab a sheet of paper so that you can record each measurements. Go ahead and make it a “pretty” sheet, because you’ll want to save these measurements for reference each time you’re about to start working a new project.
For the most accurate measurements, dress as follows: wear the style of undergarments that you’d typically wear for your sweater with a thin/lightweight top or tank and fitted, thin pants if possible for the hip measuring section.
Know what “ease” means: I won’t go into much detail about ease in this post because it’s very full already but I do want you to know what it is. Ease is the difference between your actual body measurement and the measurement of the garment itself in any given area. Ease applies to circumference measurements only. Positive ease means that the garment is larger than your body and negative ease means it’s smaller. No ease means that the garment is meant to match your actual measurements. Actual body measurements are what we are taking here. Ease is something that is considered when choosing your size and your pattern should indicate suggested ease.
You don’t need a partner to take these measurements, I’ll show you how to take them all by yourself but if you do have someone around to help, it certainly doesn’t hurt! So here we go, let’s roll!
Armhole & Yoke Depth
You may notice that I didn’t mention Yoke Depth in this video, and that’s because Yoke Depth in a pattern is based on Armhole Depth. There’s not a separate measurement responsible. In general, both depths are calculated using the total number of rows in the top section of your sweater divided by the pattern’s row gauge. For a top-down sweater, this is the length before sleeve separation; for a bottom-up sweater, it’s the length worked after joining body and sleeves. If your row gauge is significantly different than the pattern’s row gauge, you may end up with a different depth in this section. Usually, a small row gauge difference won’t affect your Yoke or Armhole Depth enough to be a bother. It’s easier to “fix” shorter rows (more rows per inches than the pattern gauge), because you can knit for extra length at the bottom of the Yoke or Armhole section. For longer rows, there’s not much you can do to shorten your depth unless you are very comfortable with pattern math and know how to adjust the spacing of your increasing or decreasing over this section. You might notice Yoke Depth measurements being slightly shorter than Armhole Depths for a similar fit—this is because the actual spacing created in a raglan or circular yoke design is on the diagonal, which results in a slightly longer line. If you don’t remember the Pythagorean Theorem (the explanation for the difference in the diagonal) that’s totally ok, just know that it’s normal to see a Yoke Depth in a raglan or circular construction that’s closer to your actual Armhole Depth versus a set-in sleeve or drop shoulder design.
Back Neck-to-Cuff & Wrist Measurements
You won’t find the Back Neck-to Cuff measurement reported on a schematic, because most knitters aren’t familiar with it. However, a good designer will have used this set of standard measurements to determine the underarm sleeve length. In this post, I’ve not shown you how to take your underarm sleeve length measurement and that’s because I highly recommend that you never compare underarm sleeve length directly. Think of a sweater as a pile of puzzle pieces that all fit together. Your desired sleeve length will be based on the amount of ease you’ve chosen to knit along with the length or width of the sweater’s Back Neck, Shoulder + Yoke or Armhole Depth. But don’t worry! I’ve got a tutorial that I recommend you utilize before beginning any long sleeve sweater that will allow you to directly compare Back Neck-to-Cuff in the pattern to your own measurement. Click the button below and use this tutorial if you’re interested in calculating your perfect sleeve length while taking into account all the puzzle pieces I mentioned!
I’ve also included Wrist Circumference in the above video because you’ll want to measure your wrist at the same location where you’ve chosen your sleeve to end. Take both of these measurements as many times as needed to have the details that will allow you to modify your sleeve length or wrist circumference for 3/4, bracelet, long or extra long sleeve length. Sleeve length is one of the most common modifications knitters need to make, and that’s because Bust/Chest measurements have nothing to do with our height and therefore, very little relation to sleeve length, either. The easiest place to modify your sleeve length is at the very top, before shaping begins. You can make this section shorter or longer to suit your modification. If you need significant length modification, you’ll have better results by adjusting the spacing of your sleeve shaping rounds (closer together for shorter sleeves and further apart for longer ones) but that’s a lesson for the Tailoring Workshop!
Upper Bust(or upper chest)
Is this the first time you’re hearing that you should take your Upper Bust/Upper Chest measurement? If so, you’re not alone. Most of the time, it’s better (and easier) to choose a size based on the fullest part of your bust. However, I recommend using your Upper Bust to choose a size in the following situations:
Tailored, set-in sleeve designs: you’ll likely have better fitting shoulders if you use this upper measurement when choosing a size. If the design features a-line shaping below the bust, you’re good to go and likely won’t have to modify anything. If the sweater is fitted all the way, and you’re blessed in the chest (that is, you have a significant difference between your upper and full bust), you may need to add short rows after sleeve separation (top down) or before sleeve join (bottom up) in order to get enough fabric for the girls to be comfortable. It’ll be well worth it for a sweater that sits perfectly on your shoulders and isn’t falling off to one side. If you need to add short rows, you can add them in dart form (click here for a great resource on this technique), or, they can go all the way across your chest with the shortest row being on the side-boob area (sorry for not coming up with more ladylike terminology here) and the longest row going across the entire front from the center of one underarm to the other. In September 2023, look for the Perfect Tee design from me, as it features this style of short row and the worksheets included in the pattern will be invaluable assets that can be utilized in other patterns going forward. For either bust short-row situation, I recommend using either the German or Japanese methods, as they are less visible than a standard wrap & turn and this is one area where you most likely don’t want to draw extra attention.
Designs with a lot of ease: if a design already has significant ease built in, that means that you can safely use your upper bust measurement to choose your size and still have enough room in your chest for the ladies. The reasoning for using the upper measurement is the same as above, you’re likely to get a much better fit at the shoulders and neckline if you’re able to use your upper bust as the decision-maker.
If you are often finding that your sweaters are too large at the shoulders, it’s (again) worth your while to use the upper bust to choose your size and learn how to modify at the full bust, which can be done in a variety of ways. You can use either of the short row methods noted above, add extra increases to the pattern itself in the front & back sections or increase the stitch count at the underarm. Just be mindful that if you increase the stitch count at the underarm, you will also increase the stitch count in your upper arm, which could be a good thing or a bad thing, depending on your desired upper arm measurement.
Full Bust (or full chest) & Length
This combination begins a series of paired measurements. The pairings are important because they allow for consistency in where your measurements are taken, and in this particular case, your Full Bust/Chest Length can be very useful to know if you’re working waist shaping in a pattern. Bust and Chest are synonymous, so I’ll stop repeating myself now and only use one term, just know that they refer to the same area!
Full Bust Circumference
If you’ve been knitting for any time at all, you probably know that the Full Bust Circumference is the measurement that a designer uses in determining all the other measurements for the pattern. I’ve mentioned “standards”, which are simply averages that we use in designing because it’s the best we’ve got and takes the maximum number of individuals into account. Here’s a look at the Yarn Council standards for women, which are just one example of a set of these standard measurements. Find your full bust measurement on the first line and look at the corresponding measurements below it; you might get an idea of why you have particular areas that you commonly need to modify! For me, I have a small bust and the upper arm circumference that goes with my bust size doesn’t work for me. Therefore, when I knit for myself, I almost always need extra room added on the top of my sleeve. If the situations I mentioned above in the upper bust section don’t describe the sweater you’re planning for, you should choose what size to knit based on your full bust circumference.
Full Bust Length
This might be a measurement you’ve never taken before! If you’re working a pattern that includes waist shaping, or you’re adding waist shaping to a pattern that doesn’t include it at all, this measurement is very important. You always want to have your full stitch count over your full bust so that you have enough fabric for good coverage. Therefore, if you’re working from the top down, you don’t want to start decreasing for your waist until you’ve passed your Full Bust Length. Conversely, if you’re working from the bottom up, make sure that all increasing is completed prior to hitting that length. It’s ok if a pattern doesn’t begin or end the shaping exactly at your full bust length, you just want to make sure that the shaping doesn’t interfere with it. If you’re adding shaping to a pattern, a great place to have your first decrease (top down)or final increase (bottom up) is about .5-1”/1.5-2.5 cm below this length measurement.
Waist Length & Circumference
This paired measurement is the most critical for waist shaping and it can also be useful if you love knitting cropped sweaters! A cropped sweater may be shorter than your Waist Length depending on the design, but if the total length is longer than your waist length, you’ll want to shorten the body of the sweater or else it won’t be cropped on you at all. Knowing the circumference at the waist will allow you to be sure that once your waist shaping is completed, you’ll have a similar level of ease at the waist as you do on the chest. If you find that there are too many or not enough shaping rounds for your Waist Circumference, modify! Be sure that the small of the waist on your sweater is at or slightly above the small of your actual waist. If it hits anywhere below, your waist shaping will not be flattering, as it will not mimic the shape of your body and instead will be snug as you get closer to your hips. To determine the amount of spacing over which you can safely work waist shaping, work the following super-easy calculation:
Waist Length - Full Bust Length = maximum length over shaping
Use this calculation to determine if the pattern’s set-up is going to work for you or not. If it doesn’t, go one step further and divide the length over shaping by the total number of shaping rounds you want to work (especially if you’ve decided to modify the total number of rounds). Then you’ll know how often to work your shaping and still have the small of the waist sit in the appropriate place on your body.
Upper Hip or “Favorite” Sweater Length and Circumference
Just like the paired shapings that came before, these two measurements correspond in order to make sure that you’ll have enough fabric at the bottom of your sweater for your Upper Hip Circumference. In the video, I called these measurements “favorites” because everyone has their own preferences about exactly where they want a sweater to hit on their hips. The longer the sweater, generally the more fabric needed around the bottom. If a sweater has a straight body, you’ll simply compare the full bust circumference to your upper hip circumference. As long as the full bust is larger than the upper hip, you’re good to go. If it’s not, you’ll want to think about modifying your sweater with some gentle increasing (top down) or decreasing (bottom up), in the area between your waist length and you Upper Hip Length in order to accommodate your hips. If a sweater includes waist shaping, it’s usually even easier to increase this total area because you’ll already have shaping markers set up and can add extra shaping rounds overall. If you are working your sweater from the bottom up and encounter this issue, you will need to cast on more stitches than the pattern calls for and make sure you get rid of the extra stitches before you get to your waist length, regardless of whether or not the pattern includes shaping.
Full Hip Length and Circumference
I won’t go on and on in this section because it’s really the same concept as in the previous one. If you are working a sweater that is this long, the bottom of it needs to accommodate your Full Hip Circumference. If you are working knit bottoms of some type, you’ll probably have chosen a size based on this measurement. If you do need extra fabric for your full hips, shape the are between your Full Hip Length and waist length as you would have between the upper hip and waist length for a shorter sweater.
Upper Arm Circumference: 4 ways
In this video, I explain a couple of very common upper arm scenarios. First, most of us have a different Upper Arm Circumference around our right and left arms. It doesn’t necessarily correspond to whether you are right or left handed, either, as that’s something I’ve asked my students regularly. Secondly, not all of us have the largest part of our arm at the very top. So, taking the four suggested measurements will allow you to determine which of the four is the largest and that’s the one you want to go with when you’re comparing your actual upper arm measurement to a schematic. It’s normal to have less ease (in terms of inches or centimeters) in your upper arm when compared to the ease in your chest, because ease is proportional and your chest is larger than your arm. However, in most cases you do want to make sure that the upper arm in your sweater is at least slightly larger than your largest actual upper arm measurement. If it’s not, you’ll want to modify by either adding extra stitches during your sleeve increases (whether they are on the sleeve itself for bottom up, or on the yoke/armhole section for top down) or by adding stitches to the underarm section. As for the full bust section, remember that adding underarm stitches will also increase the stitch count in the chest so don’t do this unless you know you want more stitches in both the chest and the upper arm.
Crossback, Back Neck Width & Shoulders
We’re at the final set of measurements! Whew! As for Back Neck-to-Cuff, you won’t typically see Crossback on a schematic, but you should see either Back Neck or Neck Circumference. Unless the design is a boatneck or features an intentionally wide neckline, neck circumference should be smaller than your head circumference. Back neck is a component of your crossback, but I’m going to briefly discuss the two separately.
crossback
Crossback measurements are most important in set-in sleeve designs. You want the crossback of the design to be smaller than your actual crossback in order for the sweater to sit nicely on your shoulders and for the sleeves to be at the top of your shoulder, instead of beginning further down your arm. You can calculate the pattern’s crossback by adding together the Back Neck and both Shoulders, the reverse of the formula shown in the video to calculate back neck using the other two measurements. But taking your crossback measurement isn’t just important for set-in sleeve designs, it can also help you determine if your back neck is set up nicely.
back neck
Although the total crossback should be smaller than your actual measurement, the back neck measurement in the pattern should be wider than your actual measurement so that you don’t get choked by your sweater but not so wide that its encompassing your shoulders. A common neckline issue occurs when a designer increases the width of the neckline by the same rate as they increase the chest. An actual neckline increases at a much smaller rate, and therefore if you’re knitting a larger size than is modeled, you really want to be confident that the back neck width is in a sweet spot and isn’t overly wide. If your pattern does not include a back neck measurement on the schematic and is a drop shoulder, raglan, or set-in sleeve design, you can easily calculate it yourself by looking at either the set-up row (top down patterns) or the final row before bind-off (bottom up patterns). Find the smallest stitch count in the back section and divided it by the pattern’s stitch gauge (over 1”2.5 cm). Voila! The number that you get after this simple act of division is your back neck measurement! Now you can compare it to your own. This is also where your actual crossback measurement comes back into play. If your back neck is more than half of your crossback, you might consider modifying it so that it has fewer stitches.
Now What?
I created these videos before I wrote the text to go along with them, and as usual, I ended up going into much more detail than I had planned! What can I say, I’m long winded and sometimes I just can’t help myself! However, I hope that even though this post wasn’t meant to teach you how to perform each potential modification, you know how to take your measurement and you know how it is supposed to compare to the schematic. You should also have a good idea of when and where modifications might be needed. There’s so much that goes into designing a single sweater, and then extended it to cover a wide range of sizes is a whole other thing! As a knitter, you should never feel constrained by a pattern. From suggested needle size to featured yarn to stitch counts, don’t be afraid to make modifications whenever you need to so that your sweater fits and flatters YOU! That’s what it’s all about.
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Bloom Hat: Loopy Leaf for the win!
I had so much fun designing Bloom for LYS Day, April 29, 2023 in conjunction with a special visit to YarnByrds! This creative technique adds texture and I can imagine using it in all kinds of ways. Below the video tutorial are written instructions you can use to practice.
loopy leaf (worked over a single st looping to the right [LR] or the left [LL])
Tip: To more easily identify the space used to create your leafy loops, use a removable marker to encircle the entire V of the bottom stitch in your twisted knit column. The space on each side of your column where the marker passes through the fabric indicates the space where the crochet hook should be inserted.
Instructions begin at LR/LL location:
Move yarn to back and let it hang.
Insert crochet hook from RS to WS of fabric between twisted knit st column and purl st next to it on Round 1 of pattern. For right-looping leaf (LR), use the space to the right of the bottom knit column; for left-looping leaf (LL), use to the space to the left. Loop will not cross over knit column.
With crochet hook, grab working yarn loosely from WS and pull through to RS.
Place loop on RH needle. Tighten it gently so that loop does not affect tension of fabric but lies neatly.
Knit 1 st.
Pass loop over knit st.
Continue in pat.
Briocherie: Quickie refresher tutorials for the skills you need!
Hello Briocherie!
Welcome to my Brioche refresher tutorials page! This is the central location to view my support videos that can help you to make your own Briocherie Pullover: brkyobrk, brk3tog and brsssk are all included. There is no audio within the videos. Written instruction slides are provided for thorough instruction, just pause to read them thoroughly & enjoy! If you find my tutorials helpful, I’d love to have your support with a pattern purchase.
The Briocherie sweater is made awesome by Spincycle Yarns, their colors are incomparably spectacular and I’ve used two different yarns in my sweater: Dyed in the Wool (main color, sport weight & color changing) and Versus (contrast color, dk weight & more consistent color).
abbreviations
brk: brioche knit or bark | brkyobrk: 2-st inc. (see video) | brk3tog: 2-st right-leaning dec. (see video) | brsssk: 2-st left-leaning dec. (see video) | LH: left hand | MC: main color | P, p: purl | RH: right hand | sl: slip | sl1yof: sl 1, yo, bring yarn to front, ready to brioche purl | st(s): stitch(es) | yfsl1yo: yarn forward, sl 1 st, yo, ready to brioche knit | YO: yarn over
There’s just one increase featured in briocherie and its the easy peasy brkyobrk. this increase is worked from a marked stitch in an mc knit column during an mc layer.
brkyobrk
Into a single st, brk1, leaving st on the LH needle, yarn forward under needle then over needle to back, brk1 into same st—2 sts inc.
These three loops are resolved on the next row as followed: sl1yof, p1, sl1yof.
the brk3tog (brioche knit 3 stitches together) is a brioche knit decrease that slants to the right. you will decrease two stitches. this decrease is worked over a marked stitch in an mc knit column during an mc layer.
brk3tog
Brk 3 sts together for a right-leaning 2-st decrease. The process for a Brk3tog begins 2 sts before the marked stitch. Note that a wrap is worked along with its stitch as only 1 st.
Sl 1 st knitwise, sl 1 st knitwise, brk these 2 sts tog, sl st back to LH needle, pass marked st over the brk st, move stitch back to RH needle.
the brsssk (brioche slip slip knit) is a brioche knit decrease that slants to the left. you will decrease two stitches. this decrease is worked over a marked stitch in an mc knit column during an mc layer.
brsssk
3 sts are worked together for a left-leaning 2-st decrease. This decrease process begins at the marked stitch itself. Note that a wrap is worked along with its stitch as only 1 st.
Sl 1st knitwise, sl 1 st knitwise, brk the next st on LH needle. Pass the slipped sts over the brk st one at a time, leaving the marked stitch on top.
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Textured Dot Tutorial + a few handy Colorwork Tips
I didn’t create this stitch, but I’m obsessed with it! Hence my decision to go full on Dottie and create a 4-piece collection! Here’s a video demonstration of the technique as used within stranded colorwork. Written step-by-step instructions are also included underneath the videos, as are a few tips for colorwork that are especially useful with the Textured Dot. Dots are performed by creating several loops of yarn that are then worked together with the stitch already on your needle.
Work in pat to location of Dot.
With CC: Insert RH needle underneath MC bar between first and second st on LH needle, wrap yarn as if to knit around RH needle and draw needle to RS with this loop, do not drop loop,
Insert RH needle above this same bar between sts on LH needle and wrap yarn as if to knit, draw needle to RS with both loops, do not drop loops,
Bring working yarn through tips of LH and RH needles, ready to purl,
Purl first st on LH needle,
Skipping purled st and from WS, insert tip of LH needle into both loops on RH needle,
Holding working yarn securely so as not to drop purled st, slip loops over purled st.
Repeat Steps 1-7 to work your Dotted round!
Since I’m already blogging about Dottie, I thought I’d throw in a few of my favorite colorwork tips in case they are new to you.
First things first, yarn choice! Not only is it imperative to get the appropriate weight, you’ve got to find a yarn that is colorwork friendly. You want a “sticky” animal fiber as opposed to an extra smooth yarn from a plant. This is because you want the two yarns to work together to make your fabric, so using fibers that will bloom together and eventually felt slightly will not only give your sweater a more polished look, but will also make the strands felt to the WS of your sweater naturally over time.
Secondly, color dominance! This will make such a big difference in your projects if you’re not already doing it. Intentionally choose which color you want to POP. For Dottie, I’d say it should be your Dot color. Here’s a great post from Ysolda on how to achieve dominance!
Always stretch out the stitches on your Right Hand needle before switching colors and don’t tug too tightly on that strand when you begin to work with it. You want to give yourself enough of a float that your fabric has a little bit of give. I find that spreading the stitches works perfectly for me to get just the right length float (and of course, I do have a lot of practice hours under my belt).
Blocking. Is. Magic. This is true in 98% of knitting projects but especially so in colorwork. Blocking will help even out your tension and help the fibers become one. Expect your project to grow a bit in its bath and to look so much better once it is dry. You can steam block before binding off to check your length but you’ll probably still get a little more length after the bath.
Alright, I could go on and on but I think I’m gonna call it and finally introduce you to Dottie!
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Cabling without a Cable Needle
This fall I seem to be all about cables! My latest design, Rosewood, features beautiful all-over cabled fabric. It is so glorious watching this fabric develop on your needles. I also have a Karel Cardigan (for me!) on my needles and my upcoming release is also jam packed in cabling. I am undoubtedly in texture-mode.
When I cable, I don’t use a cabling needle. This speeds things up considerably and in general makes for a less fussy process. Last week, I took a couple videos while working on my Karel so that I could share this technique with you. Look below each video for step-by-step written instructions that match up with what’s happening on my needles. The instructions for each directional cross are almost exactly the same; if you can cross cables one way, you can do it the other way, too!
Right-Leaning Cables
To create a right-leaning cable, you’ll typically see instructions with a “B” at the end, to describe moving stitches towards the back of your work. My demo here shows the process within a C4B, but the method is the same no matter how many stitches are included in your cable. In general, performing a cross without a cable needle gets trickier as your cable increases in number of stitches because it is difficult to keep hold of a whole bunch of loose loops. I’ve been working my cables without a cable needle for years and really only whip out that cable needle when I’m crossing upwards of 10 stitches. As a beginner, practice in your swatching and try a 3 to 4 stitch cable (as shown) before you try 6 or 8 stitches.
Work in pattern until you get to the location of your cabled stitches.
Slip the total number of stitches included in your cable to your right-hand needle, purlwise (slipping purlwise preserves the original twist of the stitch). For a C4B, this is 4 stitches.
From the back (wrong side) of your work, insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the first two unworked stitches on your right hand needle.
Place the index finger of your left hand at the base of your cabled stitches on the wrong side and use your thumb to stabilize the loops from the front (right side) of your work.
Slip the two stitches you placed on your left hand needle off of your right hand needle, keeping your thumb on the other two stitches as they slip off the needle, so that they don’t fall apart.
As soon as your right hand needle is emptied of your cabled stitches, move it to the front (right side) of your work and slip it into those two freed stitches. At this point, you’ve got two unworked stitches on your left hand needle and two on your right hand needle.
Finally, slip the two unworked stitches on your right hand needle to your left hand needle.
Now, you’ve crossed your cable and all you need to do is work those four stitches according to your pattern! For the C4B here, they are all knit stitches.
Left-Leaning Cables
To create a left-leaning cable, you’ll see instructions with an “F” at the end, to describe moving stitches to the front of your work. The instructions here are almost identical to a right-leaning cable, but pay attention to when you’re inserting your needle on the right or wrong side of your work, as that will dictate which stitches end up in front of the others and thus determine which way the cable goes.
Work in pattern until you get to the location of your cabled stitches.
Slip the total number of stitches included in your cable to your right-hand needle, purlwise (slipping purlwise preserves the original twist of the stitch). For a C4F, this is 4 stitches.
From the front (right side) of your work, insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the first two unworked stitches on your right hand needle.
Place the index finger of your left hand at the base of your cabled stitches on the wrong side and use it to stabilize the loops from the back of your work.
Slip the two stitches you placed on your left hand needle off of your right hand needle, keeping your index finger on the other two stitches as they slip off the needle, so that they don’t fall apart.
As soon as your right hand needle is emptied of your cabled stitches, move it to the back (wrong side) of your work and slip it into those two freed stitches. At this point, you’ve got two unworked stitches on your left hand needle and two on your right hand needle.
Finally, slip the two unworked stitches on your right hand needle to your left hand needle.
Now, you’ve crossed your cable and all you need to do is work those four stitches according to your pattern! For the C4F here, they are all knit stitches.
There you go! Now you’re ready to get started on an amazing all-over cabled project. It won’t take you long at all to master cable knitting without a cable needle, and you’ll be so happy to not be digging in your couch cushions every time you drop that tiny little cable needle! You can also beef up your cable game by taking a look at my tutorial for crossing cables before performing a decrease; this tip is great for extending those cables as long as possible. Be sure to tag me in your cabley-goodness posts if you use any of these tips, I’d love to see them put into practice!
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Checking Sleeve Length
Sleeve length is a relatively easy modification for most sweater patterns and it can make a world of difference in your overall fit! In my Tailoring course, I hear so often that knitters struggle with either too short or too long sleeves when they knit according to pattern. This is totally normal because not only are our bodies varied in arm lengths, the style and fit of the sweater you are knitting will determine the underarm sleeve length. So, even if you measure your actual arm length, the fit of the other pieces of the sweater will change what the finished sleeve measurement needs to be! A little bit of math and planning before you knit the sleeves can solve your personal sweater puzzle. Try the following steps before you knit you sweater to check the sleeve length and adjust it as needed. A worksheet is also provided at the bottom of this page to help you plug in all the numbers.
Have a partner measure your Back Neck-to-Cuff by holding a tape measure at the nape of your neck and running it all the way down to your wrist, where you want your sleeve to end. Slightly bend your elbow. Jot that number down. It will be used in Step 3 of the worksheet.
Now that you have this measurement, look to the pattern schematic to find the relevant dimensions that add up to this measurement. They will be different depending on the style of the garment. For example, look for numbers for the Back Neck, Shoulder Width (important for Drop Shoulder designs like Flutter), Armhole Depth or Yoke and Sleeve Length. Record these numbers in the appropriate slots in the worksheet below.
Calculate the patterned Back Neck-to-Cuff by adding together 1/2 of the Back Neck, plus the other relevant measurements.
Compare your actual measurement to what is on the pattern. If the pattern gives you a longer number, this means you might want a shorter sleeve. If the pattern gives you a smaller number, you will want to add length.
To help you visualize this, here is a specific example from the Flutter design. Size 3 was the right size for me (unmodified and shown in my images) but if I wanted to knit a more fitted version, here are the numbers for a Size 2 pulled directly from the schematic:
Back Neck = 6.75"
Shoulder Width = 6.75"
Sleeve Length = 13"
Patterned Back Neck-to-Cuff = 6.75" / 2 + 6.75" + 13" = 23.125"
My personal Back Neck-to-Cuff Measurement = 30"
Difference = 30" - 23.125" = 6.875"
Click here for a downloadable version of the worksheet below, so that you can get the perfect Sleeve Length every time!
conclusions
You can see that if I were to knit a size down (which has significantly less ease than how the sweater was originally designed) I would need to add a lot of sleeve length! A sweater with a large amount of positive ease will result in needing a shorter sleeve length when compared to a more fitted sweater, because your sleeve begins further out from the body. Each sweater design has many pieces that all work together for a good fit, so if you're knitting a sweater with less positive ease (or more) than what is shown, you'll need to make adjustments accordingly.
If you do need to add length, you will want to do it at the top of the sleeve. If you need to remove length, you might need to space increases/decreases closer together in order to achieve the same measurement on your wrist before running out of room in your desired length. Or, if there is unshaped length at the top of the Sleeve already, you can knit this portion shorter. If you’re interested in learning more about how to tailor-fit a sweater for you, be on the looking for my Tailoring Course which is offered virtually every so often. Join this list to be notified when virtual courses are offered. You can also check this page to see if there’s a currently scheduled course.
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Calculating Extra Yardage
Sometimes, you might want to add length to a design. Whether it is in the body or the sleeves, use this simple worksheet to estimate the extra yarn you want to have on hand for your desired length. Before beginning this worksheet, you should have a finished swatch in your chosen yarn, the ball band information for your yarn providing the yardage (or meterage) in a skein and the weight in grams along with the finished circumference/width of the area where you would like to add length. For sleeves, I recommend using the Upper Arm measurement. For Body Length, use the Chest or Hip Circumference measurement depending on where you are making modifications. You will also need a scale that can accurately measure the weight of your swatch in grams, such as a postage or kitchen scale. Be sure to use the same units of measurement throughout the worksheet. Click the “printable worksheet” button below to download this worksheet so you can scribble all over it!
Note: In standard math practice, parentheses () are used to indicate multiplication. In this worksheet, my examples include notation for Metric conversions as an alternative style of calculation. Choose either Metric or English Standard length measurements instead of multiplying.
Step 1
Calculate the total area of your swatch.
A ____ total width of your swatch
B ____ total length of your swatch
A x B = ____ C
The variable C describes the area of your swatch.
Step 2
Calculate the total yarn length used in your swatch.
D ____ total weight of your swatch in grams
E ____ Using the information on your ball band, divide the total yarn length on the skein by the weight in grams, ignore the ounce measurement as it is less precise.
Example: If there are 200 yards (183 meters) in a 50 gram skein, you will know that every gram is equal to 200 (183 meters) / 50 = 4 yards (3.66 meters) per gram.
D x E = ____ F
The variable F describes the total yarn length used in your swatch.
Step 3
Determine the yardage (meterage) per square inch (cm).
F / C = G ____ yardage (meterage) in one square inch (cm)
Step 4
Calculate the area of the length added to the design.
H = ____ finished circumference
I = ____ desired length addition
H x I = ____ J
The variable J is the total area that you desire to add to the design. For Sleeves, make sure to account for both sleeves (multiply your result by two).
Example: Your Finished Chest measures 50" (127 cm) and you desire to add 2" (5 cm). Multiply 50" (127 cm) x 2" (5 cm) for a total area of 100" (635 cm).
Step 5
The end!
J x G = ____ K
The variable K describes the total yardage you will need to add to the pattern's recommendation, based on your actual gauge and yarn choice!
This is an estimate and as such, I always recommend that you round up.
Planning ahead, ahead.
So, you're trying to order all your yarn at once and therefore haven't swatched yet as instructed in this worksheet.
In this case, you will want to see if you have anything in your stash that is a similar weight and fiber content to what you're planning to purchase. You can use this for swatching, but give yourself a little cushion just in case there are unique properties of your to-be-ordered yarn that you aren't capturing in your sample swatch.
Alternatively, you can use the schematic provided in your pattern to calculate an estimated total area of the garment (similarly to Step 1 of this worksheet), and replace F from Step 2 with the pattern's yardage/meterage recommendations.
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skp in one step
Here’s an easy and quick way to speed up those projects that feature an SKP.
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I-cord Cable Cast-on
This is a demonstration (with audio) of an i-cord cast-on featuring cables, used in my blanket & hat patterns, the Johnnie Layette Set. Written step-by-step instructions are included below the video.
This cast-on was really neat to play around with. I started with a basic i-cord and then decided I wanted to make it even more special so I incorporated cables.
Begin with a small provisional Cast-On that is the same width as your i-cord will be. The cord grows in rows, so we aren't talking about the width of your entire project, but just the width of the cording itself. My new blanket features a 5-stitch cord.
Begin by knitting across the cast-on stitches with your working needles. You will always be working the RS (right side) of your project, so at the end of each row, be sure to slide your stitches across your circular needle or DPN so that you are ready to work the RS again. You will not turn.
Here's where things get a little more unexpected and different than a standard i-cord.
Next Row (RS): *P1, insert your RH (right hand) needle into the right leg of the stitch UNDERNEATH the working row from back to front, and place this stitch on your LH (left hand) needle.**
Finish the row by knitting across your remaining stitches, this should be the same number of stitches as you cast on because you've purled the first st and created a new stitch.
Slide the stitches you just knit back to your LH needle, leaving the purled stitch on your RH needle. This is how your cast-on grows! You'll only be sliding the originally cast on number of stitches back to the LH needle and leaving the first stitch worked of each new row on the RH needle, not to be worked again until the first full row of your project.
Next Row: Work exactly the same way as the previous row, beginning with the P1 and ending with slipping sts back to the LH needle.
Cabled Row: Work from * to **, purling a stitch and creating a new one. Knit only the first stitch. Instead of knitting across the remaining stitches as before, perform your cable!
Final Row of the 4-row repeat: Work just like the first two, no cable.
Give it a try! It does take some time but it results in a beautiful finished edging.
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one-row buttonhole technique
This buttonhole works for pretty much every project I can imagine. It is worked on 1 row as the title implies and results in a tidy, neat, symmetrical and stretchy hole. The buttonhole itself is worked over the number of stitches desired in the buttonhole PLUS ONE. So, a 3-stitch buttonhole is actually worked over 4 stitches in order to close up both sides. Make sure to account for the extra stitch as you're planning your buttonhole placement!
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Learn to Knit-for Kids!
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Part 1 is an intro to our upcoming videos… meet the kids and hear what we are up to with this series.
Disclaimer: I don’t have a studio or professional equipment, my tripod isn’t tall enough to be in the exact spot I might have liked, but we did our best and the kids are super excited to share their progress.
Part 2 : step by step through the Backwards loop cast-on… Jesse starts by teaching you to slip knot, I show you how to add each stitch. Bloopers at the end!
part 3: step by step through the knit stitch. This video picks up right where Part 2 left off, with stitches cast on and ready to be worked. The kids help narrate while I show you lots of detailed close ups with headings and some slides with the steps needed to get knitting. After watching this video, you will be able to knit back and forth over however many stitches are on your needle and practice, practice, practice. Bloopers & kid videos are at the end of this one.
Part 4: practice
Part 5: Blocking & gauge! This video teaches new knitters about blocking and more importantly, GAUGE! Charlie shares his journey from finished swatch to measuring. Included are slides that detail the blocking & gauge measuring process. After this video, you’re ready to start a project.
After watching my new knitters at home, I decided to reorganize the series just a smidge in order to give this very important gauge lesson and get them started on their first projects, moving the Purl video down the line a bit. Don’t worry, we will definitely be teaching the Purl after everyone has a chance to master their knit stitch! Keep practicing! Next week we will talk about how to read a pattern and I will provide a free one with multiple gauge options so that you can use the swatch you have been working on as your gauge.
Click here or on the button above to download First Hat! As easy at can be, this hat is worked in the round from the bottom up with a rolled brim and options for adding stripes. To knit this hat, the only techniques you already need to be familiar with are casting on and the basic knit stitch. Options are provided for multiple sizes at several different gauges, that way you can choose one according to the worsted weight yarn and needles you've got on hand. This pattern also helps teach new knitters how to read patterns, with notes included alongside instruction.
Part 6: of the video series walks you through pattern reading. knitting patterns might have some language that is new to you, so let us help you understand how to interpret them. Below, Part 7 demonstrates the {very few} techniques that are new to this point. First Hat, episodes 6 & 7 go together!
part 7: Learn the new techniques needed for First Hat! this episode teaches joining to work in the round, adding a new color, k2tog, weaving yarn through live sts & weaving in loose ends. don’t forget to download the free hat pattern before you begin.
Knit-on Tassels
This 10 minute video walks you through each step of knitting on your tassels, featuring in my design, Lamellae Shawl. As a lover of minimal finishing, learning how to do this technique was transformative for me and meant that once I bound off my shawl, I was DONE instead of having to make a slew of tassels. You can utilize it in any bottom-up design. Tassels are worked on wrong side rows. Enjoy!
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Knitting Left & Right Twists, or Crossovers
This "cabled" stitch is worked without a cable needle and is used in such designs as the Lee Wrap, Lee Blanket, Shifty Cowl, Mary Swanson Cardi-Vest, Master Charles Cabled Ear Flap Hat, Dindy Beret, etc. This video features the Lee designs, but the technique is the same. In some of my earlier designs, I labeled the Right Twist as “Crossover,” they are the same stitch.
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Weaving in Loose Ends
Weaving in loose ends
Using duplicate stitch on reverse stockinette. I'm terribly sorry about the lack of manicure.
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Decreasing in Cable
This is the process I use when working the Gramps Cardigan (child or adult) to cross my cable stitches on a decrease row before actually performing the neckline & raglan decreases. See step-by-step instructions are directly below the video.
Step-by-step instructions
1) Knit your first st (the selvedge st).
2) IF your cabled stitches include any portion of the sts that will be used in the decrease (which would be stitches 2 and 3 of the row), sl sts until you get to your cable (this could be 0 or 1 sts, depending on where your cable begins).
3) Sl sts to cable needle, hold to front or back, sl next sts to RH needle but do not knit/purl these sts, then sl the sts from the cable needle to the RH needle as well. You should now be able to see the cable twist on your RH needle.
4) Sl all of the cable sts on your RH needle, one at a time, back to your LH needle.
5) Perform your ssk on the first two sts, then work the remaining sts in pattern and continue to the end of the row (or section, for the raglan decreases).
Once you get to the end of the row, you’ll want to parallel this side with your right front. I think its easier because you don’t have to do as much slipping back and forth, you can go ahead and work each stitch as you come to it and then when you get down to the last 3, you do your k2tog, k1.
In step 3, you are welcome to slip the sts from the CN directly to the LH needle once you get comfortable doing it. I only suggest taking them to the right first so that you can look at your twist and make sure you’ve done things in the proper direction.
Helpful Links (mentioned in the video)
The Step-by-step instructions mentioned are right above this section :)
FAQ page
KnittingHelp.com Cabling Without a Needle Tutorial
Kate's Ravelry Group & Forum
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Fringe
Insert crochet hook into single purl bump (or into whatever you need).
Pull the loop through from top to bottom.
Insert strand ends through the loop.
Pull snugly.
Sweet as pie! You've got fringe. Repeat as many times as necessary.
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Leather Patches
Leather patches are an adorable compliment to your handknits. Enjoy these templates free of charge, and watch the video below for full details on how to make your own elbow patches! If you're not keen on making your own, purchase handmade patches here.
Click here to download the printable template for making your own Elbow Patches.
Click here to download the printable template for making your own Shoulder Patches as featured in the Grove Pullover.
Download the printable instructions for making your own Elbow Patches as referenced in the video. Watch the video if you want some tips & tricks, or need help with the instructions.
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Onesie Neckline
The Onesie Neckline Join
This neckline is featured in a few different patterns including Baby Tee (from New Girl). The photos below are also included in the New Girl Booklet. This neckline join is a bit fiddly to perform but once you get it, it is very satisfying and so great for babies and toddlers. I hope seeing these photos will help to clarify any questions!
I am using two different colors for the front and back to make sure you can see what is going on and how you should be holding your pieces. The green is the Back and while the off white is the Front. Note that this tutorial begins after the Left and Right Fronts are joined together as that section is fairly straightforward and I have not gotten any questions about that section. Also note that there is no edging on these pieces since that treatment is handled differently depending on the design. If you are working the Baby Tee, you should have completed your collar ribbing before performing this join in order to minimize stretching. For Swaddle Smock, the edging is crocheted on during finishing.
Get to know your pieces: the back should still be on circular needles while the sts from the front were placed onto two DPNs after the Left and Front were joined. The DPNs are labeled according to when the sts were slipped on to them; DPN 2 will actually be used first during the join.
Next, line things up for the first join. You'll be holding two needles together in a similar fashion as for a 3-needle bind-off. Hold the circular needle with the sts from the Back on top of DPN 2. You will be starting at the very beginning of the RS row for the Back sts and working with the last sts when facing the RS of the Front.
Your working needle for the join is the circular needle, NOT DPN 1. Ignore DPN 1, and insert your circular needle into the first st from the Back and the first stitch from DPN 2 all at once, then knit these 2 sts together, placing the new stitch onto your circular needle.
Above shows the completed join of the Back with Front sts from DPN 2. This section is the Left Sleeve with one raglan st on either side. The next step is to continue knitting across the Back sts to get to the location of the second part of the join.
Now, all that's left to do is to get DPN 1 in place and perform the exact same join as you did to create the Left Sleeve overlap. Make sure that you undo any twisting of your fabric or sts on DPN 1 before you get set, as you will not be able to fix that after your join. Layer the Back on top of the DPN 1 Front sts just as for the first join. You will be working with the sts at the very beginning of the RS row for the Front sts and working with the last sts when facing the RS of the Back.
And voila! Once you knit 2 together through all of your Back sts, your join is complete. To finish up, continue knitting the remaining Front sts onto your circular needle.
Take a deep breath, the "hard" part is over :) Now you have an accommodating neckline with no fear of whether it will slip on and off easily.
Above is Swaddle Smock all finished up, and below is Baby Tee. Cute AND functional... a Tot Toppers goal achieved.
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