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maker’s bingo 2025
fabulous new additions
to the 7th annual game
2025 maker’s bingo includes:
15 knitting patterns by kate oates
14 crochet patterns by britt garber
a brand new knit and/or crochet collaborative design from britt & kate
30 patterns total, as per usual
a (totally optional) makealong of the new design; whether you participate in the makealong or not, you’ll still receive the pattern.
a discord group so that we can all enjoy each other in community: whether you’ll be showing your progress on your mmal project, chatting about how close you are to a bingo, or sharing what’s going on in your life, we are super excited to host this group so that we can get to know you. britt & I are both super community-oriented and we want to encourage you in whatever way we can.
registration is $57 and includes all of the above: providing you with 30 patterns, including the exclusive, brand new epic knit & crochet collaboration, for less than $2 each with a makealong & community experience.
note: I track each and every pattern that’s been featured in bingo every year and I never repeat them! it accidentally happened once, and so I sent out another pattern. for returning players, just know that you don’t need to worry about that.
are There are Bingo prizes to be won?
heck yes. i’m so happy to share that we have over 30 prizes this year.every year the bingo prize pool has grown. britt and i are so grateful for the support from our colleagues! we will reveal all the prizes in early march so you can see what you’re playin’ for, aside from the patterns that is. For now, look at the amazing brands who have been so generous! check them out, show them 🖤, thank them, all the things. bingo wouldn’t be bingo without them.
this year’s event is sponsored by
in addition to the following generous brands
Read on for all the game details
if you’re new to the game or need a refresher, you can find all the logistics at the bottom of this post, including images that will show you exactly how you’ll receive all your patterns and how you can either save them to your own device or add them to your ravelry library along with how you can make sure you’ll receive our emails.
but first, i’m going to share the fun stuff.
Bingo begins on april 1
as we announced in our instagram live, cards are on sale and as soon as you register, you’ll get the makealong info & be able to join the discord group to start chatting.
Each card is created manually as they are all unique, so when you register for bingo, you’ll receive an automatic download but not your bingo card. your card will be sent to you separately, closer to when the game starts.
your download will include the link to jump into the discord group and start chatting along with your bingo instructions and makealong information so that you are ready to begin as soon as the first set of instructions goes out.
all players who register for bingo by march 30
will receive their cards before play begins.
card orders placed between march 31-april 5 will be fulfilled within 48 hours. You’ll still receive the automated download, but we will need time to create your card and get you caught up with any patterns, clues & bingo numbers you’ve missed.
come one, come all
If you would like to participate in the game, but aren’t able to purchase a card due to financial constraints, e-mail knitbingo@gmail.com to request a card without pattern delivery. we will be delighted to have you play the game and be eligible for prizes. we want our game to be accessible to all.
registration for this year’s game closes on April 5, 2025!
check out the LIVE britt & I did a few weeks ago to hear straight from us about how excited we are! if you’ve got any questions, email knitbingo@gmail.com
britt & kate
I reached out to britt aka knotbadbritt to see if she wanted to collaborate with me this year for a few spectacular reasons. first, I totally hit it off with her on threads ☺️ for whatever reason, I just liked the heck out of her and everything she was sharing! naturally, this led me to pattern stalking and of course I loved her work. next, I thought to myself, how amazing would it be to bring crocheters & knitters together for bingo and make it accessible for more makers! when britt said yes, I was over the moon. during our first zoom it was so obvious we both were on the same page about so many things. it wasn’t long after that when our plans for a collaborative, new pattern were born. both of us have been so in sync throughout the entire planning process and I can honestly say that our design is literally for everyone. you can work it with 1 or 2 colors, or 15 or more! britt is working hers in black & white and I (naturally) am using 7 colors in a vibrant, neon spectrum. the design itself couldn’t be perfect for a mal. I am stoked that britt and I get to meet in person in late march, she’s coming to south carolina so we can do our photos for this design together, and also film a video series for it as well as host a live in our discord group to answer any questions or just have fun chatting. as for my other project-based video series, this one is going to show each and every technique used in our design in both knit and crochet. britt’s gonna teach me crochet & I’m gonna teach her some knitting, we are gonna have a blast. our goal is to encourage makers to maybe try out the method they are less familiar with. I know I can’t wait! after I finish my knit version of our epic design, I plan to work up a combo knit & crochet version.
you may have noticed my sponsor note earlier
not only is la bien aimée donating a fabulous prize (you’ll have to wait to hear about that until our prize announcement post in early march), but they have been collaborating with us on our new design from the very beginning. this is no ordinary collab, with two designers working up their own pieces and we are so grateful for the support & trust that the lba crew has in us to produce a totally epically worth-it design. and yes, it is. I can honestly say i’ve never designed anything like this before and the versatility can’t be overstated. we cannot wait to show it to you.
are you ready already?
About your Designers
britt garber
I am a Black Tunisian crochet and crochet designer. I started crocheting in 2015 as an attempt to make a blanket while pregnant with my daughter. I bought a book, a hook & some thick yarn. But for the life of me, I couldn’t do it. Instead, I did a classic Britt move. I rage quit and declared myself unable to do anything artistic and moved on. Weeks later, I tried again and it just clicked! I have been crocheting nearly every day since.
Before becoming a crochet pattern designer, I was a serial crochet pattern tester and sample maker. Those experiences gave me the confidence to start publishing my crochet patterns. Since becoming a crochet designer in 2020, I have specialized in creating advanced crochet patterns that are easy to memorize and capture the joy of crochet. I am passionate about elevating the perception of crochet as an art form and creating drape that would make any knitter jealous.
My designs are often easy to memorize after the first few rows, making them perfect for crocheting in front of your favorite TV show.
kate oates
I am a knitting pattern designer, instructor, author, (online) boutique owner & now, retreat hostess! join me at oq farm in vermont this fall for a luxurious retreat surrounding the vermont sheep & wool festival with on-site workshops from local artisans (and yours truly) & a personal chef to treat you to delicious meals throughout the long weekend. In the past 15+ years as a full-time fiber artist, i have published well over 300 original patterns and authored several books: grown, knits for boys and knitting clothes kids love. I create modern, wearable and stylish knits for adults under my “kate oates” line. my patterns are known for attention to detail & fit, extensive size ranges, providing a multitude of option-sets along with thorough technical instructions that often link to video tutorials. my other line (and first one), tot toppers, features whimsically wearable garments and accessories for babies and children. as an instructor, I am passionate and organized, especially when it comes to enabling knitters to create garments that fit and flatter. with over 20 years of teaching experience, my classes are well known for their high quality, original content, thorough materials & detailed workbooks that allow knitters to soak in their class experience without scrambling to take notes. I’ve even got online .
I am a neurodivergent & under-abled chronic pain warrior who advocates for others while fighting my own personal battles and choosing JOY. I have endured through more than a dozen surgeries, primarily due to spinal fusions resulting from a childhood injury. you can listen to some of my personal story here.
Prior to my transition to knitwear design, I earned a b.s. at Clemson university, then my m.a & Ph.D from the University of Florida with concentrations in political science & methodology (aka= math!). i’ve always been driven, self-motivated and committed to performing at the highest level despite my limitations.
and now for those minute details…
game play
Hint: If you’ve played with me in the past, the process itself is pretty much the same, there are just some extras this year.
This post is filled with all the detailed information you could possibly want, but if you still have questions, e-mail us at knitbingo@gmail.com.
first: add these e-mails to your address book, favorite them, mark them safe, whatever options your server gives you, do it!
help@kateoatesdesign.com: your registration confirmation & download prep is sent via automated delivery from this address after purchase. If you haven’t received your confirmation within 15 minutes after you purchase your card, e-mail knitbingo@gmail.com.
knitbingo@GMAIL.COM: Your bingo card itself & daily e-mail with the pattern name & number, along with your makealong clues will come from this address. if you registered for the game prior to March 30 and have not received your card by april 1, e-mail knitbingo@gmail.com. aside from the obvious need for your card, if you don’t receive it, it’s likely that you won’t receive our other e-mails either.
downloads@ravelry.com: pattern delivery itself will come from this address. you do not need to use ravelry, more on that later! if you have not received your pattern delivery by 10pm EST on any particular day, e-mail knitbingo@gmail.com.
these days, spam filters love to spew hate 😜 so the very best way to avoid any issues is to manually add all of these addresses as safe. if you don’t receive your confirmation e-mail, be sure to e-mail us asap so we can figure things out before the game begins. we want to make sure you’re address is correct in our system so you don’t miss anything. the good news is that I am quite used to getting email issues sorted out! there are always a handful of players with either an email typo during registration or a server/spam issue but I have always been able to resolve it within the first few days.
Getting prepared. Click here to purchase your Bingo card. after purchase, look for your e-mail from help@kateoatesdesign.com which will include a link to download your confirmation PDF with further instructions. If you place your order prior to march 30, 2024, you’ll receive your randomized, individual card prior to the first pattern delivery. If you register after that time, you’ll receive your card within 48 hours. don’t worry if you miss a pattern or a few at the beginning as we will absolutely get you caught up. we close registration before bingo’s begin being scored 🧶. registration closes on april 5.
join our community. for the first time, bingo isn’t just a game, but it’s a community event! our discord community is rockin’ already and loads of fun. if you’ve never played around with this platform before, don’t be intimidated. It’s very user friendly and we will happily answer any questions you have. as for the makealong, our discord community is totally optional but we really hope that lots of you will join in so that we can get to know you, support & encourage you in any way you need. we will not be closing the discord group immediately after bingo is officially over for the year, not only because we want to give our makealong participants additional time to create & share, but also because if it becomes a supportive space for all, why close it? Perhaps it’ll stay open for an additional month or two, or perhaps it’ll be open-ended!
makealong with us. we are so confident that you are all going to love our collaborative design that we decided it would make a perfect makealong to work up during this year’s game. depending on your speed as a maker and amount of free time, you may or may not finish your project by the time the final clue is released and that is totally ok! the makealong is totally unrelated to prizes; create at your own pace.
Playtime. throughout april, you’ll be receiving a surprise pattern in your inbox each day! This is really what Bingo is all about, as these patterns are valued at well over $250 total, and you’re getting them for less than $2 each = win-win. Each pattern will have a corresponding number which you will cross out on your card each day. Patterns will be sent at randomized times each day. We serve a variety of time zones, so this allows us to adjust the timing so that no one knows exactly when to expect it. we don’t want those in earlier time zones to always have an advantage over those in later ones so the timing of your delivery will vary just like the patterns do! by all means, if you realize that you didn’t receive a pattern on the previous day, contact us so we can sort you out.
Winning. In our game, BINGO is 5 numbers crossed off in a row either vertically, horizontally or diagonally. As soon as you have a Bingo, e-mail us with the photo or screenshot of it! let me reiterate, You must include that photo or screenshot of your card showing your winning bingo. Because we award prizes in the order they are received, you are not declared a winner until we are able to verify that you do have a BINGO by cross checking our numbers with your card! We gave a lot of thought to this, but since we go by the order emails are received and it does take a moment to take the photo, attach and send, we feel it would be unfair to “count” emails that don’t include all the information needed right front the start. If you do send us a note without the photo, you aren’t disqualified, but you’ll want to resend ASAP with your image.
prizes. If you are one of the first 30+ knitters to share your Bingo with us, you are eligible for a prize! when you win, you will get to choose the prize that you are most excited about from our list. The list will get smaller as each prize is claimed. we aren’t going to say exactly how many prizes we have right now 🙃 but there are at least 30, way more than ever before!
patterns. Bingo will continue even after all prizes have been claimed because of course, you’re getting all your patterns! in your daily emails, we’ll keep you updated on how many prizes remain. once all prizes are claimed, we will let you know & there is no longer any need to send us any bingos. we hope that you will continue to enjoy our discord community, the makealong opportunity, the expansion of your pattern library and, hopefully, queue!
you may not always have a number to cross off on your card
You can skip this section if you wish as it is only explanatory, but for those of you that are curious about bingo methodology and why we do things the way we do, we don’t mind sharing at all! as bingo has gained momentum and participants, the prizes have been claimed more quickly so we have tried to increase the challenge a bit. there are more patterns included in the game than there are numbers on your card. Your card will be missing 5 numbers, so sometimes the daily pattern will not be on your card. there are also no free spaces, you’ll have to get all 5 in a row to win. The anticipation is so fun and we want there to be prizes to win for as long as possible.
pattern delivery
we know that ravelry does not work for everyone and is not always your preferred storage space but fortunately, ravelry does offer a gift delivery method. using this feature, individuals can choose whether they would like to download and store their pattern through their own system and/or add it to their library. as noted in above, you’ll want to be sure to have the e-mail address downloads@ravelry.com in your address book, unblocked and unfiltered, as this is how the daily pattern will arrive. We will be sending your pattern to the e-mail address provided from your Bingo card purchase through the Ravelry gift feature. All participants will receive their e-mail at the same time and then be able to decide where to store the pattern as best suits individual needs.
Put your Pattern where you want it.
When you receive your daily e-mail, it’ll look like this and you may save to your device or add it to your Ravelry Library, you do not need to use ravelry to retrieve your pattern. Either way, step 1 is to click the download button! Note: If you are not signed in to your Ravelry account before clicking the link in your e-mail, or you do not use Ravelry, you will see “sign in to store on Ravelry” in place of the checkbox shown at the upper top right.
After you click the button, you’ll arrive on a landing page. This page has a link for the actual file download, and a checkbox that refers to your Ravelry Library. The set-up below shows the set-up for saving the file to your device ONLY. Just click that link and you’re all set.
The exact same page is below, but this is what it looks like when storing to your library.
So there you go! A more detailed set of instructions than you could ever need for clicking a button!
prize shipping
tangible goodies are fabulous, don’t you agree? We want to include as many makers as possible and we love our international friends. This year we will be shipping internationally for up to $40.00 USD. If your shipping costs significantly exceed this amount, we may contact you to see if you would like to cover the additional cost or would rather switch to a digital prize.
Thanks a million!
To our generous sponsors! makers, you’ll never regret supporting them and we cannot wait to share the amazing prizes they are offering for this year’s game.
crocheting neckline edges
I’m a knitter, not a crocheter, I just never did learn! however, there are times in my knitting life where working with a crochet hook can really come in handy. Of course, the provisional cast-on comes straight to mind, but aside from that, I definitely enjoy crocheting edges when I’m looking for something really clean and simple. this video tutorial is geared towards knitters who are unfamiliar with crochet terminology (including myself!) and demonstrates the edging featured in both pink fluff pattern necklines. now, both of these patterns also include an alternate i-cord edging which does give a similar look so if you are just not into crochet hooks, period, or this method isn’t going well for you, by all means use that I-cord instead! for those that do know their crochet, i’ve been told (by an expert) that what I’m working on this neckline is a slip 1, chain 1, repeated around the entire neckline. so if those terms make sense to you, you probably don’t need this tutorial! if you do find this tutorial useful, there’s a donation button below!
the video tutorial includes all the audio you could want, most likely more repetitiveness than you need and even some written instructions that pos up on your screen from time to time, but I thought i’d really go deep in this blog post and explain in more depths each step of this process. if you’d rather jump straight into the video, the instruction itself begins at 1:45—feel free to skip my intro!
the big picture
the two main steps
there are two components of this neckline edging. the first is working into a stitch and the second part is chaining a stitch right afterward. both components are equally important. when you work into the stitch (whether it’s live from the provisional cast-on, or a stitch that you’d normally be picking up to knit), you’re joining your edging to your piece. when you chain a stitch, you’re adding a new stitch to create some elasticity so that the neckline will fit over your head. if you forget a chain a handful of times on your entire neckline, you probably won’t notice a difference, but if you’re not regularly working that second step, you’re gonna end up with a too-tight edging, as if you were just working a single crochet all the way around. also, do not, do not, do NOT pull each loop that you create tightly. You want to be creating loops that are stable and as consistent as possible, but you want them to be on the looser side—again, for elasticity. if you find that you are creating your loops too snugly, you can consider chaining a second stitch to help make up for it, but you’re better off if you can convince you fingers to not pull those loops too tight! another one of the nice things about this edging in general is that you’re always going to be wrapping your yarn around the crochet hook in the same way. you’re not ever going to be reversing the way you wrap, so once you’ve gotten the wrapping process down, it’ll just be on repeat.
workin’ it
i’m going to follow the instruction order as to how it’s shown in the video, so the first portion deals with live stitches on knitting needles and then we go to working into stitches that are on the edge of your garment and not on your needles. in the pink fluff patterns, you’ll be working with both types of stitches, but if you want to use this edging on another sweater (or another part of the garment other than the neckline) it is 100% fine to be working all the way around on live stitches or all the way around the edge of the garment without knitting needles at all. they do not need to be combined, that just happens to be the way I constructed these two sweaters.
section 1: working stitches on live needles
the nice part about using your crochet hook in combination with your knitting needles is that you’re really just replacing your right hand needle with a crochet hook instead. in fact, you could likely perform this edging with knitting needles only, but I think having the hook to grab the yarn really helps to facilitate and expedite the process, so that’s why i’m demonstrating it In this particular way. the first set of stitches you’re working with in pink fluff are those that were provisionally cast-on, so before you begin working the steps below, you should have removed that cast-on and placed your set of live stitches on working needles. go ahead and set those down as you’ll need to prepare your crochet hook with working yarn before continuing as follows: with the yarn you’ll be using for your edging, make a slip knot and place it onto your crochet hook. snug it up, but don’t make it super tight (see above!) hold your hook in your right hand and pick up your knitting needles with your left hand, ready to work the right side of those live stitches. here we go!
insert the crochet hook into the first live stitch as if to knit, creating an X just as you would if you were using two knitting needles. your crochet hook will be situated behind your left hand needle, angled to the left, and your left hand knitting needle will be angled to the right.
making sure not to use the tail from your slip knot, wrap the working yarn behind the hook, from right to left, and then over the top of the hook to create a counter clockwise loop—this is actually a yarnover on your crochet hook. i’m going to say this again, keep the loop on the looser side. you’ll now have two loops on your crochet hook: one at the bottom/right (closest to the handle) and then a second newly created loop sitting towards the hook end, above your left hand knitting needle.
using the hook to grab hold of your newly created loop while keeping just enough tension on the working yarn so that it does not fall off your hook, pull it through the stitch on your needle. you will still have two loops on your crochet hook and remember, you don’t want them to be too tight.
if you didn’t automatically do this in the previous step, slide the stitch from your left hand needle off of it, as it has now been worked. you’ve still got two loops on your crochet hook but now you don’t have a knitting needle in between them.
the next step can be done in two different ways, either by using the hook or your left hand needle, but the result will be the same. i’m writing the process out separately below, so only work it in the way that is most comfortable for you. my recommendation is to keep trying option 1 and only resort to option 2 if you really can’t get it. the more comfortable you become with your hook, the easier the entire process will be.
option 1: use the hook to grab your newly created top loop and draw it through the bottom loop
option 2: use your left hand needle to grab the bottom loop and slip it over top of the newly created loop
you are now down to having only one loop on your hook and you’ve completed the first component of this process! now we will move into the second, adding the chain stitch so that you’ll have enough of an edging to fit over your head.
section 2: chaining after working every. single. stitch.
now for the even easier part! working a single chain stitch. if you’ve ever worked a provisional cast-on with a crochet hook, you probably already know how to chain a stitch because typically you chain a few stitches, then start your cast-on—which Is essentially chaining with a knitting needle In the middle of the chain—then end your cast-on by chaining additional stitches once you have the correct number of stitches on your needles. You can even chain all of the stitches in your provisional cast-on and then insert your needle into each loop afterwards. i’ll still be very descriptive here and write this for anyone who has never worked a crochet chain. at this point in our process, we have worked steps 1-5 from above and are back down to having only a single loop on our crochet hook. I’ll refer to this loop as the bottom loop as I did above. and yes, these steps below are going to sound familiar.
work as for step 2 in section 1: wrap the working yarn behind the hook, from right to left, and then over the top of the hook to create a yarnover on your crochet hook. once again, you’ve got two loops.
work as for step 5 in section 1: once again you can feel free to use your knitting needle to help, but If you get the hang of using your hook it’ll be more efficient if you can use it alone to chain your stitch. use the hook to grab your newly created top loop and draw it through the bottom loop. if you’re not confident enough with your hook yet, refer to option 2. you are now back to a single loop on your needle and…
ta da! you’ve chained a stitch!
section 3: repeat, repeat, repeat
for the entire section of provisionally cast-on stitches, you’ll be working {steps 1-5, step 2, step 5} all the way until all of your live stitches are worked. just don’t forget that chain. if you have to pause mid-process, or you just forget whether you’ve chained or not, take a look at your work. if you’ve completed the chain, you’ll see an unattached loop/stitch sitting on “top” of the loop that’s connected to your neckline edge. whereas if you’ve not yet chained, the last loop you see will be incorporated into the actual neckline edge. once you’ve worked all of your live stitches, it’s time to move onto the remainder of the edging.
section 4: working stitches along your edging
this process is almost the same as working with live stitches, only it Is a bit easier because you don’t have a knitting needle involved, therefore you don’t need to remember to slide the stitch you just worked off your needle (step 4 from the very first section). when you get to this section of edging in both pink fluff patterns, you will already have a loop on your crochet hook because you’ll have just completed working each stitch involved in the provisional cast-on, so you don’t need to create a slip knot. however if you are using this edging for something else where all your stitches were cast-on in standard fashion, or have been bound off, you will need a loop on the hook to begin, so only if you do not already have a loop on your crochet hook, create a slip knot, place it on your hook, snug it up, but not too tightly, just as I described in the set-up for working from live sts. bottom line, you will always need a single loop on your crochet hook prior to working into a stitch whether it is live or on an existing edge.
before beginning your work, examine your edging to determine a consistent location into which you’ll be inserting your crochet hook. If you are used to picking up stitches, the point of insertion for the crochet hook is exactly the same as where you would be inserting your right hand needle if you were to pick up and knit that stitch instead. In the video, my demonstration shows a bound off edge so it’s easy to see the loops into which I am working. I recommend using only one of those loops and it is the one that is closest to you when you’re looking at your work. It will be easy to see this loop along your front cable cast-on edge as well, but the diagonals are a little trickier to see. the most important thing is not necessarily where you insert your hook but that you maintain consistency (same goes for picking up and knitting!). I recommend using either the second or third leg along vertical or diagonal edges: Each knit stitch consists of two legs, so when I say the second leg, I am referring to the interior leg of the first stitch (from the edge of your work), where the third leg is referring to the exterior leg of the second stitch. once you’ve taken a good look at your fabric and have a plan of insertion, you’re ready to roll. you should have a single loop on your crochet hook and know where it’s going to go.
insert crochet hook into the leg of your chosen stitch or the loop of your cast-on edge as if you were going to pick up and knit a stitch.
work as for step 2 in section 1: but i’ll write it out again for you, wrap the working yarn behind the hook, from right to left, and then over the top of the hook to create a counter clockwise loop. your pre-existing loop is at the bottom/right (closest to the handle) of the hook and your second newly created loop is sitting towards the hook end with the leg/loop of your project edge in between the two loops on your hook.
work as for step 3 in section 1: are you starting to see that even though your stitches are coming from different places, they are all being worked in virtually the same way? the only difference between step 3 in section 1 here is that you won’t have the knitting needle in between: using the hook to grab hold of your newly created loop, pull it through the stitch into which your hook is inserted. your two loops on your crochet hook are now situated on “top” of your project fabric.
work as for step 5 in section 1: since we don’t have to slide a stitch off a needle, you’ll go straight to step 5. once again, you can either pick up a knitting needle to help you pull the bottom loop over the top loop, or you can use your crochet hook to pull the top loop through the bottom loop. at this point, since you no longer have knitting needles in hand, it will be much more efficient to use only the crochet hook.
And that’s how you work into your fabric edging. It’s hardly different from working into live stitches at all.
section 5: it’s time to chain again
this time I’m not going to rewrite it, but after going through steps 1-4 in section 4, you will work the steps from section 2, exactly the same as you did after each stitch in section 1.
section 6: repeat, repeat, repeat
yup, every time you insert your hook into an edging leg/loop, you’ll work the entirety of sections 4 & 5. continue until you get all the way around to where you began with your live stitches along the provisionally cast on edge and then, move on to finishing up.
finishingd
nothing fancy is happening here! once you’ve worked each stitch (and the chain that follows) you’ll be back to where it all began. break your yarn with a 6”/15 cm or so tail. Go ahead and stretch your final loop on the crochet hook large enough that it’s easy to thread your tail through and pull it snugly to secure. with a tapestry needle, use your tail to connect the end of your edging to the beginning, doing your best to mimic the way the strands look in the rest of the edging.
that’s all folks!
I hope that this tutorial gives you a great edging option! although I’ve written it in the order that follows the instructions in ruffle fluff & lacey fluff, remember that it doesn’t matter whether you’re working from live stitches or from existing edges. this is a beautifully neat & clean way to finish off a project, especially when you don’t want to detract from other detailing that deserves to shine. if you’ve enjoyed this content and found it useful, there’s a donation button below!