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Tutorials Kate Oates Tutorials Kate Oates

Textured Dot Tutorial + a few handy Colorwork Tips

I didn’t create this stitch, but I’m obsessed with it! Hence my decision to go full on Dottie and create a 4-piece collection! Here’s a video demonstration of the technique as used within stranded colorwork. Written step-by-step instructions are also included underneath the videos, as are a few tips for colorwork that are especially useful with the Textured Dot. Dots are performed by creating several loops of yarn that are then worked together with the stitch already on your needle.

  1. Work in pat to location of Dot.

  2. With CC: Insert RH needle underneath MC bar between first and second st on LH needle, wrap yarn as if to knit around RH needle and draw needle to RS with this loop, do not drop loop,

  3. Insert RH needle above this same bar between sts on LH needle and wrap yarn as if to knit, draw needle to RS with both loops, do not drop loops,

  4. Bring working yarn through tips of LH and RH needles, ready to purl,

  5. Purl first st on LH needle,

  6. Skipping purled st and from WS, insert tip of LH needle into both loops on RH needle,

  7. Holding working yarn securely so as not to drop purled st, slip loops over purled st. 

Repeat Steps 1-7 to work your Dotted round!

Since I’m already blogging about Dottie, I thought I’d throw in a few of my favorite colorwork tips in case they are new to you.

First things first, yarn choice! Not only is it imperative to get the appropriate weight, you’ve got to find a yarn that is colorwork friendly. You want a “sticky” animal fiber as opposed to an extra smooth yarn from a plant. This is because you want the two yarns to work together to make your fabric, so using fibers that will bloom together and eventually felt slightly will not only give your sweater a more polished look, but will also make the strands felt to the WS of your sweater naturally over time.

Secondly, color dominance! This will make such a big difference in your projects if you’re not already doing it. Intentionally choose which color you want to POP. For Dottie, I’d say it should be your Dot color. Here’s a great post from Ysolda on how to achieve dominance!

Always stretch out the stitches on your Right Hand needle before switching colors and don’t tug too tightly on that strand when you begin to work with it. You want to give yourself enough of a float that your fabric has a little bit of give. I find that spreading the stitches works perfectly for me to get just the right length float (and of course, I do have a lot of practice hours under my belt).

Blocking. Is. Magic. This is true in 98% of knitting projects but especially so in colorwork. Blocking will help even out your tension and help the fibers become one. Expect your project to grow a bit in its bath and to look so much better once it is dry. You can steam block before binding off to check your length but you’ll probably still get a little more length after the bath.

Alright, I could go on and on but I think I’m gonna call it and finally introduce you to Dottie!


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A Spinster Duo + Stitches West

I have two new patterns to share today. They are very different but they have one very important thing in common: gorgeously unique Spincycle Yarn.  I think on the very best kind of Saturday, you can wake up with cozy Switchback Slippers...

...then once you've had your coffee (or Diet Coke), you can get glammed up for a day out with your Shifty Cowl.

Both of these design samples will be available for petting in the Spincycle Booth at Stitches West where you can get your yarn on and also snag a hard copy of each of the patterns.  Read on for loads of design info and backstory on both of these.

Patterns: Shifty Cowl & Switchback Slippers Photography: Erica B. Studio + Design Yarn for Cowl:  Spincycle Yarns Dyed in the Wool in Strata Yarn for Slippers: YOTH Yarns Daughter in Black Truffle with Spincycle Yarns Independence in Devilish Grin Cowl Styled by Poshture Boutique; click to shop the Top, Jeans & Jewelry

I designed the cowl first and it is actually based on a stitch pattern I recently developed for a blanket. I am really particular about blankets.  I don't like to have to pick up edges and I don't like having a "wrong side" but I also love textured fabric and cables, so in my swatching I was committed to figuring out how to do something that could encompass all of my favorite things. The solution was a series of twists and slipped stitches that shift on both sides to make the fabric totally reversible. I found this fabric so addicting to knit and had to create a wearable garment with it in addition to my original plan.

I pitched my idea to the Spinsters and they were so good to me; they sent a colorway of Dyed in the Wool that they developed for the Stitches West show called Strata.  If you're attending the show, you'll have first dibs to snap up this dreamy gradient. The cowl features a shifting rib for your first skein and the twisty texture for the other two; the pattern also tells you just how to make the most of your precious Spincycle Yarn. The pieces are twisted before the final join so that the cowl lays nicely whether hanging long or doubled.

This cowl is a one-size pattern that is suitable for adventurous beginning knitters. There is a lot of technical instruction included in the pattern such as directions for provisional cast-on and three-needle bind-off. No cable needles are needed either.

I love how our model, Belle, is wearing her cowl.  Thanks so much to Poshture for styling another shoot for me. Links for her outfit are at the top of the page. Thanks also to my sample knitter, Krista, for working hard on this for the Stitches deadline. She worked on the cowl because I had my Switchback Slippers on the needles! This pair is worked with YOTH Daughter as the base and Spincycle Independence as that smashing pop of color.

Spinster Kate (or Tall Kate as I like to call her) sent me an idea for some slippers months ago, after we chatted at Rhinebeck. It took me some time to put my thoughts together and it also took me knitting the first slipper three separate times before I got what I wanted. It is always worth the time and effort though, once you get just the right thing.

The stitch pattern for the sole of these slipper-socks was adapted from Andrea Rangel's book, Alterknit.  This is such a great book. Not only are the motifs stunning, there are so many great tips that can improve your colorwork such as discussions of color dominance and catching floats to improve your tension.  I also love how Andrea explains the name of the book because I wholeheartedly agree with her style of rule-breaking. I think my first stranded colorwork design was Diplodocus (years ago!); it features longer floats and at the time, I really wasn't educated enough to realize this was untraditional as it was not my first time knitting such a motif. Since then I've learned enough to give folks a little warning when I do this. These slippers do not follow all the traditional Fair Isle rules as there are indeed longer floats that I suggest catching, but I love the freedom this gives when tweaking a motif to fit the purposes of a design. Sometimes you just don't get exactly what you want without pushing boundaries a bit.

I hit my stride with the motif in my first knit of the slipper because charts are awesome, but then came the struggle for how to do the ankle.  I experimented with a shorter bootie, buttons, wraps and garter stitch but ultimately landed on a twisted rib with some bonus fabric for the cozy factor. And even after I settled on that, I redid the cuff one more time to get them just so.

These slippers are worked from the toe up with a no-wrap short row heel. I do recommend having some prior colorwork experience before working these slippers. Although the stranding section isn't huge, the longer floats do make it a little trickier to keep your tension steady. If you're not knitting each slipper three times like I did, you'll find these will knit up very quickly, maybe in time for your next lazy morning.

The slipper pattern includes 4 sizes for men and women. I suggest choosing a size that is close to your actual foot circumference instead of smaller as is the norm for socks.  The stranding inhibits the fabric stretch a bit but makes them nice and fluffy.

I  am very much looking forward to the show later this week and I hope to meet some new faces along with giving hugs to my favorite spinsters!!  Love you Rach & Kate and hope you enjoy short Kate's first adventures with your yarn.

As I mentioned last week, during the show you can find me in the YOTH booth.  Here are just a few of the samples I will have with me there:

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Come say hi! See you at the show! Let's go yarn shopping! Whoop whoop!

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Brochan Slouch, DK, Hat Kate Oates Brochan Slouch, DK, Hat Kate Oates

Brochan

Pattern Update: Brochan Slouch
Photography by Erica B. Studio + Design
Yarn: Dragonfly Fibers Traveller & YOTH Big Sister
Styling by Poshture Boutique; click to shop the Vest & Necklace

Brochan Slouch

This bottom-up stranded hat can be worn slouchy (above) or more fitted beanie-style with the brim flipped (below). It is sized for all ages, men or women, boy or girl.

Brochan Slouch

This sassy new sample features a 2-color version (the original pattern features 3) which I utilized with the colors of my Alma Mater, Clemson University. I actually started knitting this one when my husband and I were road tripping to the NCAA College Football Championship game last January. Clemson won so basically this hat brings All the Good Things.

Brochan Slouch

I also used a faux fur pom pom for the first time and I LOVE how fun it is. Plus it is easy and comes out perfect every time, ha!

Brochan Slouch

Brochan is updated with my new format and the 2-color version option; it also includes metric conversions and I was able to make the chart much larger.

Brochan Slouch

The design still includes all the sizes from infant to adult and a couple of the original photos too.  Because there were no substantive changes, I decided to include both versions of the pattern in the download.  Photo cred below to Veronika Jobe & Kickstand Studio.

Brochan Slouch YOTH

The original version is only 2 pages (smaller chart!) and has more pictures of the Child size, so if that suits you better, I figured there was no harm in keeping it available.

Brochan Slouch

Next week I am super excited to be heading to Rhinebeck, NY for the New York Sheep & Wool Festival for the FIRST TIME EVER. I have now completed two Rhinebeck Sweaters...one that is brand stinking new and one of the most challenging patterns just in terms of the writing and grading; it knits really fast but goodness I had to really do a lot of thinking for all the sizes. And the other is a new Gramps Cardigan for ME in YOTH Daughter's new colorway, Natural Oatmeal. Leave me a comment if you have been to the show in the past, are going to the show this year, have any tips for me OR if going is on your bucket list! Come on...that covers most everyone right  ;P

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Cardigan, Dyad, Worsted Kate Oates Cardigan, Dyad, Worsted Kate Oates

Dyad

I have a new thing that I am so excited to share with you. I seem to be addicted to big projects, so this fall, I am introducing a new line of patterns which will simply be identified by my name. Without going on and on, I'll just say these adult patterns will be knittable, wearable, stylish and modern.  I'll be publishing brand new designs (first one right now! finally!) and also refreshing & updating some of my favorite When I Grow Up designs with my new look and feel.  I have to immediately and heartily thank Mary Joy Gumayagay who continues to wow me with her genius design skills and how she can understand what I want better than even I do.  You are awesome. Love you! And now for the debut pattern: here is Dyad.

This sweater is perhaps a tad multiple personality. It's an honest design with complex character. When I conceptualized it, I thought about the many women that live in a daily roulette of roles. We work hard, we are professionals, we are providers, we are mothers, we are wives; the list goes on. I know my attitude varies based on surroundings and expectations alongside my own experiences and feelings.  Dyad is a pliable cardigan ready to exemplify your spirit.

This top-down cardigan design is defined by duality: choose cozy cables or spunky colorwork, short or long, snug or generous fit. The faux seam lines are lengthening to flatter every body; knit it just as you want with the options you love.

The body of this sweater is worked seamlessly alongside the edging for a double breasted open finish. The collar is knit upward from provisionally cast-on neckline stitches and is doubled for reversible stability regardless of how the sweater lays. Finishing is minimal as there are no stitches to pick up for the edging.

My knitting style gets a bit anxious: when I close in on a project, I am ready for my process to be over. Not every project can be designed with minimal finishing but if it can be done, I will do it and thus does Dyad. Edging is worked along with the body to nix that finishing step.

This pattern is designed for intermediate knitters comfortable with minimal seaming and working from a chart. Colorwork version shown in size S with 3”/15 cm positive ease; cabled version shown in size XS fitted with no ease.

I am thankful to work and live an in a supportive community and enjoyed partnerships every step of the way with this design. Magpie Fibers provided the yarn support for this project; working with Dami's colors and fiber made the knitting so enjoyable. And she didn't even blink when I asked about knitting a second sample to show off a very different option set.  I want to also thank Krista Wilson for testing this pattern, knitting one of the samples and finishing way ahead of deadline.  The yarn we used is called Domestic Worsted and you'll want to go shop for your own right here.  Thanks also to my tech editing duo Tana & Edie for getting the pattern into top shape.

Poshture Boutique (Columbia, SC) was so generous in helping me style these pieces (along with another still to come). I shared my vision in how I would want to wear these sweaters and Kara's fabulous taste, along with my friend and photographer, Erica Billingsley, brought it to light.  The two of them also hooked me up with models Kristin (wearing the colorwork version) and Delaney (wearing the cabled version).  Check out Kristin's dress here, boots here, and stunning necklace here. Feeling a bit more casual? Delaney's top is here,  boots are here & necklace here.

As for me, I want a funky colorwork collar when I am ready to make a splash but I will take my cables any day when I need to feel cozy and protected.

You can click here or on any of the photos to purchase the pattern.  For the first 24 hours, you can purchase this pattern for 50% off with the code KATEOATES, valid through my shop only. Click on the blue "promo" link at checkout to enter the code. If you choose to create an account in the shop, you will have permanent access to your PDF purchases. Please join the new mailing list if you'd like to stay up to date on the new brand and be notified when the new website launches in full!

Whether you knit this sweater once or several times over, I hope it uplifts you freely and makes you feel amazing.  I would love to hear your comments on this design and which version you think you'd like to make!  Post a comment for me for a chance to win a free copy of the next KO pattern on the slate, which is Gramps revamped :)

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