Cabling without a Cable Needle

This fall I seem to be all about cables! My latest design, Rosewood, features beautiful all-over cabled fabric. It is so glorious watching this fabric develop on your needles. I also have a Karel Cardigan (for me!) on my needles and my upcoming release is also jam packed in cabling. I am undoubtedly in texture-mode.

When I cable, I don’t use a cabling needle. This speeds things up considerably and in general makes for a less fussy process. Last week, I took a couple videos while working on my Karel so that I could share this technique with you. Look below each video for step-by-step written instructions that match up with what’s happening on my needles. The instructions for each directional cross are almost exactly the same; if you can cross cables one way, you can do it the other way, too!

Right-Leaning Cables

To create a right-leaning cable, you’ll typically see instructions with a “B” at the end, to describe moving stitches towards the back of your work. My demo here shows the process within a C4B, but the method is the same no matter how many stitches are included in your cable. In general, performing a cross without a cable needle gets trickier as your cable increases in number of stitches because it is difficult to keep hold of a whole bunch of loose loops. I’ve been working my cables without a cable needle for years and really only whip out that cable needle when I’m crossing upwards of 10 stitches. As a beginner, practice in your swatching and try a 3 to 4 stitch cable (as shown) before you try 6 or 8 stitches.

1. Work in pattern until you get to the location of your cabled stitches.

2. Slip the total number of stitches included in your cable to your right-hand needle, purlwise (slipping purlwise preserves the original twist of the stitch). For a C4B, this is 4 stitches.

3. From the back (wrong side) of your work, insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the first two unworked stitches on your right hand needle.

4. Place the index finger of your left hand at the base of your cabled stitches on the wrong side and use your thumb to stabilize the loops from the front (right side) of your work.

5. Slip the two stitches you placed on your left hand needle off of your right hand needle, keeping your thumb on the other two stitches as they slip off the needle, so that they don’t fall apart.

6. As soon as your right hand needle is emptied of your cabled stitches, move it to the front (right side) of your work and slip it into those two freed stitches. At this point, you’ve got two unworked stitches on your left hand needle and two on your right hand needle.

7. Finally, slip the two unworked stitches on your right hand needle to your left hand needle.

8. Now, you’ve crossed your cable and all you need to do is work those four stitches according to your pattern! For the C4B here, they are all knit stitches.

Left-Leaning Cables

To create a left-leaning cable, you’ll see instructions with an “F” at the end, to describe moving stitches to the front of your work. The instructions here are almost identical to a right-leaning cable, but pay attention to when you’re inserting your needle on the right or wrong side of your work, as that will dictate which stitches end up in front of the others and thus determine which way the cable goes.

1. Work in pattern until you get to the location of your cabled stitches.

2. Slip the total number of stitches included in your cable to your right-hand needle, purlwise (slipping purlwise preserves the original twist of the stitch). For a C4F, this is 4 stitches.

3. From the front (right side) of your work, insert the tip of your left-hand needle into the first two unworked stitches on your right hand needle.

4. Place the index finger of your left hand at the base of your cabled stitches on the wrong side and use it to stabilize the loops from the back of your work.

5. Slip the two stitches you placed on your left hand needle off of your right hand needle, keeping your index finger on the other two stitches as they slip off the needle, so that they don’t fall apart.

6. As soon as your right hand needle is emptied of your cabled stitches, move it to the back (wrong side) of your work and slip it into those two freed stitches. At this point, you’ve got two unworked stitches on your left hand needle and two on your right hand needle.

7. Finally, slip the two unworked stitches on your right hand needle to your left hand needle.

8. Now, you’ve crossed your cable and all you need to do is work those four stitches according to your pattern! For the C4F here, they are all knit stitches.

There you go! Now you’re ready to get started on an amazing all-over cabled project. It won’t take you long at all to master cable knitting without a cable needle, and you’ll be so happy to not be digging in your couch cushions every time you drop that tiny little cable needle! You can also beef up your cable game by taking a look at my tutorial for crossing cables before performing a decrease; this tip is great for extending those cables as long as possible. Be sure to tag me in your cabley-goodness posts if you use any of these tips, I’d love to see them put into practice!

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A Spinster Duo + Stitches West

I have two new patterns to share today. They are very different but they have one very important thing in common: gorgeously unique Spincycle Yarn.  I think on the very best kind of Saturday, you can wake up with cozy Switchback Slippers...

...then once you've had your coffee (or Diet Coke), you can get glammed up for a day out with your Shifty Cowl.

Both of these design samples will be available for petting in the Spincycle Booth at Stitches West where you can get your yarn on and also snag a hard copy of each of the patterns.  Read on for loads of design info and backstory on both of these.

Patterns: Shifty Cowl & Switchback Slippers Photography: Erica B. Studio + Design Yarn for Cowl:  Spincycle Yarns Dyed in the Wool in Strata Yarn for Slippers: YOTH Yarns Daughter in Black Truffle with Spincycle Yarns Independence in Devilish Grin Cowl Styled by Poshture Boutique; click to shop the Top, Jeans & Jewelry

I designed the cowl first and it is actually based on a stitch pattern I recently developed for a blanket. I am really particular about blankets.  I don't like to have to pick up edges and I don't like having a "wrong side" but I also love textured fabric and cables, so in my swatching I was committed to figuring out how to do something that could encompass all of my favorite things. The solution was a series of twists and slipped stitches that shift on both sides to make the fabric totally reversible. I found this fabric so addicting to knit and had to create a wearable garment with it in addition to my original plan.

I pitched my idea to the Spinsters and they were so good to me; they sent a colorway of Dyed in the Wool that they developed for the Stitches West show called Strata.  If you're attending the show, you'll have first dibs to snap up this dreamy gradient. The cowl features a shifting rib for your first skein and the twisty texture for the other two; the pattern also tells you just how to make the most of your precious Spincycle Yarn. The pieces are twisted before the final join so that the cowl lays nicely whether hanging long or doubled.

This cowl is a one-size pattern that is suitable for adventurous beginning knitters. There is a lot of technical instruction included in the pattern such as directions for provisional cast-on and three-needle bind-off. No cable needles are needed either.

I love how our model, Belle, is wearing her cowl.  Thanks so much to Poshture for styling another shoot for me. Links for her outfit are at the top of the page. Thanks also to my sample knitter, Krista, for working hard on this for the Stitches deadline. She worked on the cowl because I had my Switchback Slippers on the needles! This pair is worked with YOTH Daughter as the base and Spincycle Independence as that smashing pop of color.

Spinster Kate (or Tall Kate as I like to call her) sent me an idea for some slippers months ago, after we chatted at Rhinebeck. It took me some time to put my thoughts together and it also took me knitting the first slipper three separate times before I got what I wanted. It is always worth the time and effort though, once you get just the right thing.

The stitch pattern for the sole of these slipper-socks was adapted from Andrea Rangel's book, Alterknit.  This is such a great book. Not only are the motifs stunning, there are so many great tips that can improve your colorwork such as discussions of color dominance and catching floats to improve your tension.  I also love how Andrea explains the name of the book because I wholeheartedly agree with her style of rule-breaking. I think my first stranded colorwork design was Diplodocus (years ago!); it features longer floats and at the time, I really wasn't educated enough to realize this was untraditional as it was not my first time knitting such a motif. Since then I've learned enough to give folks a little warning when I do this. These slippers do not follow all the traditional Fair Isle rules as there are indeed longer floats that I suggest catching, but I love the freedom this gives when tweaking a motif to fit the purposes of a design. Sometimes you just don't get exactly what you want without pushing boundaries a bit.

I hit my stride with the motif in my first knit of the slipper because charts are awesome, but then came the struggle for how to do the ankle.  I experimented with a shorter bootie, buttons, wraps and garter stitch but ultimately landed on a twisted rib with some bonus fabric for the cozy factor. And even after I settled on that, I redid the cuff one more time to get them just so.

These slippers are worked from the toe up with a no-wrap short row heel. I do recommend having some prior colorwork experience before working these slippers. Although the stranding section isn't huge, the longer floats do make it a little trickier to keep your tension steady. If you're not knitting each slipper three times like I did, you'll find these will knit up very quickly, maybe in time for your next lazy morning.

The slipper pattern includes 4 sizes for men and women. I suggest choosing a size that is close to your actual foot circumference instead of smaller as is the norm for socks.  The stranding inhibits the fabric stretch a bit but makes them nice and fluffy.

I  am very much looking forward to the show later this week and I hope to meet some new faces along with giving hugs to my favorite spinsters!!  Love you Rach & Kate and hope you enjoy short Kate's first adventures with your yarn.

As I mentioned last week, during the show you can find me in the YOTH booth.  Here are just a few of the samples I will have with me there:

Come say hi! See you at the show! Let's go yarn shopping! Whoop whoop!

reGramps Slouch

Last month I got to go to Rhinebeck, NY to the New York Sheep & Wool Festival for the first time ever.  I loved everything about it, the landscape, the foliage, the animals, the shopping but more than anything...the people. I got to stay in an incredible old mill house with some beautiful people, inside and out. One of them was willing to be my photographer and another agreed to model the updated version of Gramps Slouch.

This Gramps is modeled by Kate Burge which you will recognize from Spincycle Yarns. I knit the hat in YOTH Daughter and behind the camera was Veronika the multitalented. Daughter has frequented my needles a lot the past few months, I just can't help it. After finishing a new sweater design (forthcoming) with the Natural Oatmeal colorway, I had a skein left and it was too perfect not to use it for a hat makeover.

I changed just a few rounds of the crown shaping at the very top because I decided I wanted to retain the stockinette background instead of the original reverse stockinette. The gauge is tweaked to reflect the yarn change but other than that, the design is the same and now has been added to the KO pop-up shop.

We took these photos outside our house where I really hope I get to go again next year.  I treasure my time with these women so much. They are all so inspiring and I constantly wonder how I got lucky enough to be included amidst such a group.

If you purchased a previous version of Gramps Slouch you have access to this updated one too. If you're new to the design, you can find it in my online shop, or on Ravelry, or elsewhere my designs are sold.

And PS, I did finish my own Gramps for Rhinebeck.  And yes I wore it even though it was warm! #Rhinebecksweatersuccess

ReGramps

When you get really excited about how pretty your new pattern format is... all of a sudden you have to vamp up your favorite older patterns so that they too can experience the new look.  I have been spending loads of time doing this lately (and maybe not enough time knitting, oops).   This is the first of several re-releases coming at you and joining the Kate Oates design line. Here is the new Gramps, one of my most popular designs ever.

This particular update has been planned for a little bit as I wanted to show off Gramps with an alternate look; a new sample and new pictures were required.  The other minor tweaks that followed just happened naturally during the process and I think just make the design even better.  I credit Veronika for almost all of these suggestions, you are a treasure Ve! She is also deserving of the yarn and photography credit AND she produced the gorgeous human who is modeling; you'll probably recognize Jasmine from other patterns (Blush, Big Sister) and of course lots of YOTH patterns as well.

You're looking at YOTH Yarns Daughter in a calming cream colorway called Natural Vanilla. This yarn has such great texture for cables. I'm working on something totally new with it as well and it has made me decide to cast on my VERY OWN GRAMPS as my Rhinebeck Sweater, after the new-new one is finished of course (no pressure). Did you know I hardly have any sweaters in my closet because they get knit up and then go on tour?  It is sad! But this way you get to see them in your yarn shops and at shows, like Stitches Texas which is where ReGramps is headed in just a couple of weeks.

Notes on the updates: I adjusted the size labels because I think they were a bit confusing. They matched how my original model wore her sweater (which was pretty fitted) but it is more standard to include a few inches of positive ease for a sweater of this style. For example, the smallest size is now labeled as XXS instead of XS and so on. While the Finished Chest measurements are still your guide to what size you want to knit, I just wanted to mention this change to stem potential confusion. The other size adjustment was in the upper arm where I added just a tad more ease.

The only real design change is in the collar which is now a little bit more luscious and cozy because it is deeper and along with that, the buttonband is a bit wider.  These tweaks make me happy all the way around and they will keep you warmer, too.

Lastly, I went ahead and adjusted the gauge on the pattern to reflect the new yarn choice in the featured pattern sample. It was very close to the original gauge but as you probaby know, even a slight gauge adjustment can change how a sweater fits and also how much yarn you need for your project!  I don't want to be responsible for that!

I hope you fall in love with Gramps all over again just like I did.  You can get this pattern for 50% off with the code KATEOATES for the first 24 hours through the Pop Up Shop. If you already have this pattern in your library either on my website or Ravelry you should already have access to the new version.  I would love to hear your thoughts on the new look so leave me a comment! Also, comment to tell me which of my adult patterns you would most like to see updated and added to the line.  One lucky commenter will win a copy of next week's pattern release.

Cheers,

Dyad

I have a new thing that I am so excited to share with you. I seem to be addicted to big projects, so this fall, I am introducing a new line of patterns which will simply be identified by my name. Without going on and on, I'll just say these adult patterns will be knittable, wearable, stylish and modern.  I'll be publishing brand new designs (first one right now! finally!) and also refreshing & updating some of my favorite When I Grow Up designs with my new look and feel.  I have to immediately and heartily thank Mary Joy Gumayagay who continues to wow me with her genius design skills and how she can understand what I want better than even I do.  You are awesome. Love you! And now for the debut pattern: here is Dyad.

This sweater is perhaps a tad multiple personality. It's an honest design with complex character. When I conceptualized it, I thought about the many women that live in a daily roulette of roles. We work hard, we are professionals, we are providers, we are mothers, we are wives; the list goes on. I know my attitude varies based on surroundings and expectations alongside my own experiences and feelings.  Dyad is a pliable cardigan ready to exemplify your spirit.

This top-down cardigan design is defined by duality: choose cozy cables or spunky colorwork, short or long, snug or generous fit. The faux seam lines are lengthening to flatter every body; knit it just as you want with the options you love.

The body of this sweater is worked seamlessly alongside the edging for a double breasted open finish. The collar is knit upward from provisionally cast-on neckline stitches and is doubled for reversible stability regardless of how the sweater lays. Finishing is minimal as there are no stitches to pick up for the edging.

My knitting style gets a bit anxious: when I close in on a project, I am ready for my process to be over. Not every project can be designed with minimal finishing but if it can be done, I will do it and thus does Dyad. Edging is worked along with the body to nix that finishing step.

This pattern is designed for intermediate knitters comfortable with minimal seaming and working from a chart. Colorwork version shown in size S with 3”/15 cm positive ease; cabled version shown in size XS fitted with no ease.

I am thankful to work and live an in a supportive community and enjoyed partnerships every step of the way with this design. Magpie Fibers provided the yarn support for this project; working with Dami's colors and fiber made the knitting so enjoyable. And she didn't even blink when I asked about knitting a second sample to show off a very different option set.  I want to also thank Krista Wilson for testing this pattern, knitting one of the samples and finishing way ahead of deadline.  The yarn we used is called Domestic Worsted and you'll want to go shop for your own right here.  Thanks also to my tech editing duo Tana & Edie for getting the pattern into top shape.

Poshture Boutique (Columbia, SC) was so generous in helping me style these pieces (along with another still to come). I shared my vision in how I would want to wear these sweaters and Kara's fabulous taste, along with my friend and photographer, Erica Billingsley, brought it to light.  The two of them also hooked me up with models Kristin (wearing the colorwork version) and Delaney (wearing the cabled version).  Check out Kristin's dress here, boots here, and stunning necklace here. Feeling a bit more casual? Delaney's top is here,  boots are here & necklace here.

As for me, I want a funky colorwork collar when I am ready to make a splash but I will take my cables any day when I need to feel cozy and protected.

You can click here or on any of the photos to purchase the pattern.  For the first 24 hours, you can purchase this pattern for 50% off with the code KATEOATES, valid through my shop only. Click on the blue "promo" link at checkout to enter the code. If you choose to create an account in the shop, you will have permanent access to your PDF purchases. Please join the new mailing list if you'd like to stay up to date on the new brand and be notified when the new website launches in full!

Whether you knit this sweater once or several times over, I hope it uplifts you freely and makes you feel amazing.  I would love to hear your comments on this design and which version you think you'd like to make!  Post a comment for me for a chance to win a free copy of the next KO pattern on the slate, which is Gramps revamped :)