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Check back frequently for the latest updates and designs.
You can view other older posts from Kate on the Tot Toppers Blog.
Checking Sleeve Length
Sleeve length is a relatively easy modification for most sweater patterns and it can make a world of difference in your overall fit! In my Tailoring course, I hear so often that knitters struggle with either too short or too long sleeves when they knit according to pattern. This is totally normal because not only are our bodies varied in arm lengths, the style and fit of the sweater you are knitting will determine the underarm sleeve length. So, even if you measure your actual arm length, the fit of the other pieces of the sweater will change what the finished sleeve measurement needs to be! A little bit of math and planning before you knit the sleeves can solve your personal sweater puzzle. Try the following steps before you knit you sweater to check the sleeve length and adjust it as needed. A worksheet is also provided at the bottom of this page to help you plug in all the numbers.
Have a partner measure your Back Neck-to-Cuff by holding a tape measure at the nape of your neck and running it all the way down to your wrist, where you want your sleeve to end. Slightly bend your elbow. Jot that number down. It will be used in Step 3 of the worksheet.
Now that you have this measurement, look to the pattern schematic to find the relevant dimensions that add up to this measurement. They will be different depending on the style of the garment. For example, look for numbers for the Back Neck, Shoulder Width (important for Drop Shoulder designs like Flutter), Armhole Depth or Yoke and Sleeve Length. Record these numbers in the appropriate slots in the worksheet below.
Calculate the patterned Back Neck-to-Cuff by adding together 1/2 of the Back Neck, plus the other relevant measurements.
Compare your actual measurement to what is on the pattern. If the pattern gives you a longer number, this means you might want a shorter sleeve. If the pattern gives you a smaller number, you will want to add length.
To help you visualize this, here is a specific example from the Flutter design. Size 3 was the right size for me (unmodified and shown in my images) but if I wanted to knit a more fitted version, here are the numbers for a Size 2 pulled directly from the schematic:
Back Neck = 6.75"
Shoulder Width = 6.75"
Sleeve Length = 13"
Patterned Back Neck-to-Cuff = 6.75" / 2 + 6.75" + 13" = 23.125"
My personal Back Neck-to-Cuff Measurement = 30"
Difference = 30" - 23.125" = 6.875"
Click here for a downloadable version of the worksheet below, so that you can get the perfect Sleeve Length every time!
conclusions
You can see that if I were to knit a size down (which has significantly less ease than how the sweater was originally designed) I would need to add a lot of sleeve length! A sweater with a large amount of positive ease will result in needing a shorter sleeve length when compared to a more fitted sweater, because your sleeve begins further out from the body. Each sweater design has many pieces that all work together for a good fit, so if you're knitting a sweater with less positive ease (or more) than what is shown, you'll need to make adjustments accordingly.
If you do need to add length, you will want to do it at the top of the sleeve. If you need to remove length, you might need to space increases/decreases closer together in order to achieve the same measurement on your wrist before running out of room in your desired length. Or, if there is unshaped length at the top of the Sleeve already, you can knit this portion shorter. If you’re interested in learning more about how to tailor-fit a sweater for you, be on the looking for my Tailoring Course which is offered virtually every so often. Join this list to be notified when virtual courses are offered. You can also check this page to see if there’s a currently scheduled course.
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Calculating Extra Yardage
Sometimes, you might want to add length to a design. Whether it is in the body or the sleeves, use this simple worksheet to estimate the extra yarn you want to have on hand for your desired length. Before beginning this worksheet, you should have a finished swatch in your chosen yarn, the ball band information for your yarn providing the yardage (or meterage) in a skein and the weight in grams along with the finished circumference/width of the area where you would like to add length. For sleeves, I recommend using the Upper Arm measurement. For Body Length, use the Chest or Hip Circumference measurement depending on where you are making modifications. You will also need a scale that can accurately measure the weight of your swatch in grams, such as a postage or kitchen scale. Be sure to use the same units of measurement throughout the worksheet. Click the “printable worksheet” button below to download this worksheet so you can scribble all over it!
Note: In standard math practice, parentheses () are used to indicate multiplication. In this worksheet, my examples include notation for Metric conversions as an alternative style of calculation. Choose either Metric or English Standard length measurements instead of multiplying.
Step 1
Calculate the total area of your swatch.
A ____ total width of your swatch
B ____ total length of your swatch
A x B = ____ C
The variable C describes the area of your swatch.
Step 2
Calculate the total yarn length used in your swatch.
D ____ total weight of your swatch in grams
E ____ Using the information on your ball band, divide the total yarn length on the skein by the weight in grams, ignore the ounce measurement as it is less precise.
Example: If there are 200 yards (183 meters) in a 50 gram skein, you will know that every gram is equal to 200 (183 meters) / 50 = 4 yards (3.66 meters) per gram.
D x E = ____ F
The variable F describes the total yarn length used in your swatch.
Step 3
Determine the yardage (meterage) per square inch (cm).
F / C = G ____ yardage (meterage) in one square inch (cm)
Step 4
Calculate the area of the length added to the design.
H = ____ finished circumference
I = ____ desired length addition
H x I = ____ J
The variable J is the total area that you desire to add to the design. For Sleeves, make sure to account for both sleeves (multiply your result by two).
Example: Your Finished Chest measures 50" (127 cm) and you desire to add 2" (5 cm). Multiply 50" (127 cm) x 2" (5 cm) for a total area of 100" (635 cm).
Step 5
The end!
J x G = ____ K
The variable K describes the total yardage you will need to add to the pattern's recommendation, based on your actual gauge and yarn choice!
This is an estimate and as such, I always recommend that you round up.
Planning ahead, ahead.
So, you're trying to order all your yarn at once and therefore haven't swatched yet as instructed in this worksheet.
In this case, you will want to see if you have anything in your stash that is a similar weight and fiber content to what you're planning to purchase. You can use this for swatching, but give yourself a little cushion just in case there are unique properties of your to-be-ordered yarn that you aren't capturing in your sample swatch.
Alternatively, you can use the schematic provided in your pattern to calculate an estimated total area of the garment (similarly to Step 1 of this worksheet), and replace F from Step 2 with the pattern's yardage/meterage recommendations.
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skp in one step
Here’s an easy and quick way to speed up those projects that feature an SKP.
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I-cord Cable Cast-on
This is a demonstration (with audio) of an i-cord cast-on featuring cables, used in my blanket & hat patterns, the Johnnie Layette Set. Written step-by-step instructions are included below the video.
This cast-on was really neat to play around with. I started with a basic i-cord and then decided I wanted to make it even more special so I incorporated cables.
Begin with a small provisional Cast-On that is the same width as your i-cord will be. The cord grows in rows, so we aren't talking about the width of your entire project, but just the width of the cording itself. My new blanket features a 5-stitch cord.
Begin by knitting across the cast-on stitches with your working needles. You will always be working the RS (right side) of your project, so at the end of each row, be sure to slide your stitches across your circular needle or DPN so that you are ready to work the RS again. You will not turn.
Here's where things get a little more unexpected and different than a standard i-cord.
Next Row (RS): *P1, insert your RH (right hand) needle into the right leg of the stitch UNDERNEATH the working row from back to front, and place this stitch on your LH (left hand) needle.**
Finish the row by knitting across your remaining stitches, this should be the same number of stitches as you cast on because you've purled the first st and created a new stitch.
Slide the stitches you just knit back to your LH needle, leaving the purled stitch on your RH needle. This is how your cast-on grows! You'll only be sliding the originally cast on number of stitches back to the LH needle and leaving the first stitch worked of each new row on the RH needle, not to be worked again until the first full row of your project.
Next Row: Work exactly the same way as the previous row, beginning with the P1 and ending with slipping sts back to the LH needle.
Cabled Row: Work from * to **, purling a stitch and creating a new one. Knit only the first stitch. Instead of knitting across the remaining stitches as before, perform your cable!
Final Row of the 4-row repeat: Work just like the first two, no cable.
Give it a try! It does take some time but it results in a beautiful finished edging.
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one-row buttonhole technique
This buttonhole works for pretty much every project I can imagine. It is worked on 1 row as the title implies and results in a tidy, neat, symmetrical and stretchy hole. The buttonhole itself is worked over the number of stitches desired in the buttonhole PLUS ONE. So, a 3-stitch buttonhole is actually worked over 4 stitches in order to close up both sides. Make sure to account for the extra stitch as you're planning your buttonhole placement!
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Learn to Knit-for Kids!
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Part 1 is an intro to our upcoming videos… meet the kids and hear what we are up to with this series.
Disclaimer: I don’t have a studio or professional equipment, my tripod isn’t tall enough to be in the exact spot I might have liked, but we did our best and the kids are super excited to share their progress.
Part 2 : step by step through the Backwards loop cast-on… Jesse starts by teaching you to slip knot, I show you how to add each stitch. Bloopers at the end!
part 3: step by step through the knit stitch. This video picks up right where Part 2 left off, with stitches cast on and ready to be worked. The kids help narrate while I show you lots of detailed close ups with headings and some slides with the steps needed to get knitting. After watching this video, you will be able to knit back and forth over however many stitches are on your needle and practice, practice, practice. Bloopers & kid videos are at the end of this one.
Part 4: practice
Part 5: Blocking & gauge! This video teaches new knitters about blocking and more importantly, GAUGE! Charlie shares his journey from finished swatch to measuring. Included are slides that detail the blocking & gauge measuring process. After this video, you’re ready to start a project.
After watching my new knitters at home, I decided to reorganize the series just a smidge in order to give this very important gauge lesson and get them started on their first projects, moving the Purl video down the line a bit. Don’t worry, we will definitely be teaching the Purl after everyone has a chance to master their knit stitch! Keep practicing! Next week we will talk about how to read a pattern and I will provide a free one with multiple gauge options so that you can use the swatch you have been working on as your gauge.
Click here or on the button above to download First Hat! As easy at can be, this hat is worked in the round from the bottom up with a rolled brim and options for adding stripes. To knit this hat, the only techniques you already need to be familiar with are casting on and the basic knit stitch. Options are provided for multiple sizes at several different gauges, that way you can choose one according to the worsted weight yarn and needles you've got on hand. This pattern also helps teach new knitters how to read patterns, with notes included alongside instruction.
Part 6: of the video series walks you through pattern reading. knitting patterns might have some language that is new to you, so let us help you understand how to interpret them. Below, Part 7 demonstrates the {very few} techniques that are new to this point. First Hat, episodes 6 & 7 go together!
part 7: Learn the new techniques needed for First Hat! this episode teaches joining to work in the round, adding a new color, k2tog, weaving yarn through live sts & weaving in loose ends. don’t forget to download the free hat pattern before you begin.
photo contest
I’m ready to get inspired for my fall knitting and one of my favorite ways to do this is to see pictures of beautiful projects! I thought it would be fun to have a little “contest” so you can show off your work, hear how much everyone else loves it and maybe win a prize, too.
How it works:
Post your picture on Facebook or Instagram of any Kate Oates or Tot Toppers design with the hashtag #kopicme. Make sure your photo is public so that it is searchable when I look up the tag! You can also e-mail your photos to help@kateoatesdesign.com to enter.
Any photo is ok! This could be a new photo of a project finished years ago, or a photo you have posted before. A WIP is also totally fine. Just inspire us all with gorgeous imagery or cute kids.
Deadline to enter is Thursday, August 1. That gives you a little time to take new photos if you wish!
I will repost the top pictures and the three that get the most love will all be winners! Entering the contest gives me permission to repost your photo. If you would like to remain anonymous, I’m more than happy to not tag you in your photo, just let me know by e-mailing help@kateoatesdesign.com!
Each winner will receive the same Prize Package including ALL of the following:
A kit from my Etsy shop (includes yarn and pattern)
A signed copy of my book, Grown
Your choice of any 3 single patterns
I cannot wait to see your pictures! I have seen so many beautiful ones through the years, even if I only get to see those again, I’ll be a very happy lady.
Knit-on Tassels
This 10 minute video walks you through each step of knitting on your tassels, featuring in my design, Lamellae Shawl. As a lover of minimal finishing, learning how to do this technique was transformative for me and meant that once I bound off my shawl, I was DONE instead of having to make a slew of tassels. You can utilize it in any bottom-up design. Tassels are worked on wrong side rows. Enjoy!
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Lee Wrapalong: the KAL to kick off your 2019
You made it through the holidays! January is here and the New Year is underway. You gift knitted your little fingers off and now it is time to knit something to reward yourself for all that hard work. I am so pleased to present a pre-order for the Lee Wrap which is a design that has been in progress for almost a year now. My favorite designs tend to involve a lot of trial and error and ripping out and re-doing and this one is no exception but my oh my, this cardigan is like wearing a big hug and I just want to live in it.
I’ve decided to do this release a little differently than usual because I am just so excited about this project. I’ve teamed up with YOTH Yarns and Fiber & Hue to set up a KAL deal with a variety of yarn options that work beautifully with this design. I wanted to give everyone time to place their yarn orders and maybe get a swatch or two done before we all CO together on the official KAL start date, which is next Tuesday, January 22. This will also give you a little bit of time to clear your needles, if you want to!
The wrap is constructed as a giant rectangle with set-in sleeves placed just-so. The sizing for the design is based primarily on upper arm with a very stretchy ribbed crossback, so you’ll be working your gauge swatch in stockinette as that’s how the sleeves are worked. The other textures featured in the design are totally reversible and you may recognize them from the Lee Blanket. The Twisty Rib is my favorite—it is a reversible cabled stitch worked without a cable needle. Jasmine (featured in the images above) is wearing her sweater oversized in YOTH Yarns Neighbor in Bronze (dyed by Fiber & Hue); I’m wearing mine with more fitted sleeves in YOTH Yarns Big Sister in Cracked Pepper.
I’ll be at Stitches West for the third year in a row in the YOTH Yarns booth; it’ll be the second year with Fiber & Hue and for the first time, I’m actually going to have my own little pop up shop in the booth too. So, it made so much sense for us all to work together for this KAL! Fiber & Hue Go to DK yarn will provide a very similar drape and fit as the YOTH Yarns Big Sister (shown on me, above) and Krista (the maker behind F&H) was kind enough to knit up a few swatches in pattern to show you how it works up. The colors below are called Siren, Troll, Frida & Ghost.
So without further adieu, here are the awesome yarn options we have come up with that we recommend for this KAL! Stay tuned to instagram as we chat more about how these fibers will produce slightly different fabrics. You can also see our test knitter’s projects on Ravelry. They look so good!
YOTH Yarns Neighbor (featured)
YOTH Yarns Big Sister (featured)
Fiber & Hue Go To DK
YOTH Yarns Daughter
YOTH Yarns is offering 10% off Neighbor, Big Sister and Daughter bases for our KAL with the code LEEWRAPTASTIC. Fiber & Hue is offering 15% off Go to DK purchases over $200 with the code LEEWRAP and you can get the pattern for $2 off from me with the code LEEWRAPTASTIC as well. All these deals are valid now through our KAL start date, January 22, 2019. When you purchase the pattern on Ravelry, you’ll be provided with a spec sheet that includes yardage information along with total skeins for each of our recommended yarns. You will also receive swatching instructions so you can get started on that as soon as you have your yarn in hand! And of course you are welcome to use any yarn you want in our KAL so I will look forward to seeing what other beautiful selections are represented, too.
I hope you are ready to jump on in and join me! I can’t wait for us to get started. This pattern is totally suitable for adventurous beginning knitters so do not be shy. Feel free to challenge yourself this year with this project. If you know how to knit and purl, cast on and bind off, you can knit this sweater. That’s the great thing about KALs, plenty of help is available for any questions that arise. The other great thing about KALs? Prizes. We will announce our prizes at the start of the KAL. They will be yummy and yarny!
Knitting Left & Right Twists, or Crossovers
This "cabled" stitch is worked without a cable needle and is used in such designs as the Lee Wrap, Lee Blanket, Shifty Cowl, Mary Swanson Cardi-Vest, Master Charles Cabled Ear Flap Hat, Dindy Beret, etc. This video features the Lee designs, but the technique is the same. In some of my earlier designs, I labeled the Right Twist as “Crossover,” they are the same stitch.
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Weaving in Loose Ends
Weaving in loose ends
Using duplicate stitch on reverse stockinette. I'm terribly sorry about the lack of manicure.
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Decreasing in Cable
This is the process I use when working the Gramps Cardigan (child or adult) to cross my cable stitches on a decrease row before actually performing the neckline & raglan decreases. See step-by-step instructions are directly below the video.
Step-by-step instructions
1) Knit your first st (the selvedge st).
2) IF your cabled stitches include any portion of the sts that will be used in the decrease (which would be stitches 2 and 3 of the row), sl sts until you get to your cable (this could be 0 or 1 sts, depending on where your cable begins).
3) Sl sts to cable needle, hold to front or back, sl next sts to RH needle but do not knit/purl these sts, then sl the sts from the cable needle to the RH needle as well. You should now be able to see the cable twist on your RH needle.
4) Sl all of the cable sts on your RH needle, one at a time, back to your LH needle.
5) Perform your ssk on the first two sts, then work the remaining sts in pattern and continue to the end of the row (or section, for the raglan decreases).
Once you get to the end of the row, you’ll want to parallel this side with your right front. I think its easier because you don’t have to do as much slipping back and forth, you can go ahead and work each stitch as you come to it and then when you get down to the last 3, you do your k2tog, k1.
In step 3, you are welcome to slip the sts from the CN directly to the LH needle once you get comfortable doing it. I only suggest taking them to the right first so that you can look at your twist and make sure you’ve done things in the proper direction.
Helpful Links (mentioned in the video)
The Step-by-step instructions mentioned are right above this section :)
FAQ page
KnittingHelp.com Cabling Without a Needle Tutorial
Kate's Ravelry Group & Forum
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Fringe
Insert crochet hook into single purl bump (or into whatever you need).
Pull the loop through from top to bottom.
Insert strand ends through the loop.
Pull snugly.
Sweet as pie! You've got fringe. Repeat as many times as necessary.
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Leather Patches
Leather patches are an adorable compliment to your handknits. Enjoy these templates free of charge, and watch the video below for full details on how to make your own elbow patches! If you're not keen on making your own, purchase handmade patches here.
Click here to download the printable template for making your own Elbow Patches.
Click here to download the printable template for making your own Shoulder Patches as featured in the Grove Pullover.
Download the printable instructions for making your own Elbow Patches as referenced in the video. Watch the video if you want some tips & tricks, or need help with the instructions.
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Onesie Neckline
The Onesie Neckline Join
This neckline is featured in a few different patterns including Baby Tee (from New Girl). The photos below are also included in the New Girl Booklet. This neckline join is a bit fiddly to perform but once you get it, it is very satisfying and so great for babies and toddlers. I hope seeing these photos will help to clarify any questions!
I am using two different colors for the front and back to make sure you can see what is going on and how you should be holding your pieces. The green is the Back and while the off white is the Front. Note that this tutorial begins after the Left and Right Fronts are joined together as that section is fairly straightforward and I have not gotten any questions about that section. Also note that there is no edging on these pieces since that treatment is handled differently depending on the design. If you are working the Baby Tee, you should have completed your collar ribbing before performing this join in order to minimize stretching. For Swaddle Smock, the edging is crocheted on during finishing.
Get to know your pieces: the back should still be on circular needles while the sts from the front were placed onto two DPNs after the Left and Front were joined. The DPNs are labeled according to when the sts were slipped on to them; DPN 2 will actually be used first during the join.
Next, line things up for the first join. You'll be holding two needles together in a similar fashion as for a 3-needle bind-off. Hold the circular needle with the sts from the Back on top of DPN 2. You will be starting at the very beginning of the RS row for the Back sts and working with the last sts when facing the RS of the Front.
Your working needle for the join is the circular needle, NOT DPN 1. Ignore DPN 1, and insert your circular needle into the first st from the Back and the first stitch from DPN 2 all at once, then knit these 2 sts together, placing the new stitch onto your circular needle.
Above shows the completed join of the Back with Front sts from DPN 2. This section is the Left Sleeve with one raglan st on either side. The next step is to continue knitting across the Back sts to get to the location of the second part of the join.
Now, all that's left to do is to get DPN 1 in place and perform the exact same join as you did to create the Left Sleeve overlap. Make sure that you undo any twisting of your fabric or sts on DPN 1 before you get set, as you will not be able to fix that after your join. Layer the Back on top of the DPN 1 Front sts just as for the first join. You will be working with the sts at the very beginning of the RS row for the Front sts and working with the last sts when facing the RS of the Back.
And voila! Once you knit 2 together through all of your Back sts, your join is complete. To finish up, continue knitting the remaining Front sts onto your circular needle.
Take a deep breath, the "hard" part is over :) Now you have an accommodating neckline with no fear of whether it will slip on and off easily.
Above is Swaddle Smock all finished up, and below is Baby Tee. Cute AND functional... a Tot Toppers goal achieved.
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A Spinster Duo + Stitches West
I have two new patterns to share today. They are very different but they have one very important thing in common: gorgeously unique Spincycle Yarn. I think on the very best kind of Saturday, you can wake up with cozy Switchback Slippers...
...then once you've had your coffee (or Diet Coke), you can get glammed up for a day out with your Shifty Cowl.
Both of these design samples will be available for petting in the Spincycle Booth at Stitches West where you can get your yarn on and also snag a hard copy of each of the patterns. Read on for loads of design info and backstory on both of these.
Patterns: Shifty Cowl & Switchback Slippers Photography: Erica B. Studio + Design Yarn for Cowl: Spincycle Yarns Dyed in the Wool in Strata Yarn for Slippers: YOTH Yarns Daughter in Black Truffle with Spincycle Yarns Independence in Devilish Grin Cowl Styled by Poshture Boutique; click to shop the Top, Jeans & Jewelry
I designed the cowl first and it is actually based on a stitch pattern I recently developed for a blanket. I am really particular about blankets. I don't like to have to pick up edges and I don't like having a "wrong side" but I also love textured fabric and cables, so in my swatching I was committed to figuring out how to do something that could encompass all of my favorite things. The solution was a series of twists and slipped stitches that shift on both sides to make the fabric totally reversible. I found this fabric so addicting to knit and had to create a wearable garment with it in addition to my original plan.
I pitched my idea to the Spinsters and they were so good to me; they sent a colorway of Dyed in the Wool that they developed for the Stitches West show called Strata. If you're attending the show, you'll have first dibs to snap up this dreamy gradient. The cowl features a shifting rib for your first skein and the twisty texture for the other two; the pattern also tells you just how to make the most of your precious Spincycle Yarn. The pieces are twisted before the final join so that the cowl lays nicely whether hanging long or doubled.
This cowl is a one-size pattern that is suitable for adventurous beginning knitters. There is a lot of technical instruction included in the pattern such as directions for provisional cast-on and three-needle bind-off. No cable needles are needed either.
I love how our model, Belle, is wearing her cowl. Thanks so much to Poshture for styling another shoot for me. Links for her outfit are at the top of the page. Thanks also to my sample knitter, Krista, for working hard on this for the Stitches deadline. She worked on the cowl because I had my Switchback Slippers on the needles! This pair is worked with YOTH Daughter as the base and Spincycle Independence as that smashing pop of color.
Spinster Kate (or Tall Kate as I like to call her) sent me an idea for some slippers months ago, after we chatted at Rhinebeck. It took me some time to put my thoughts together and it also took me knitting the first slipper three separate times before I got what I wanted. It is always worth the time and effort though, once you get just the right thing.
The stitch pattern for the sole of these slipper-socks was adapted from Andrea Rangel's book, Alterknit. This is such a great book. Not only are the motifs stunning, there are so many great tips that can improve your colorwork such as discussions of color dominance and catching floats to improve your tension. I also love how Andrea explains the name of the book because I wholeheartedly agree with her style of rule-breaking. I think my first stranded colorwork design was Diplodocus (years ago!); it features longer floats and at the time, I really wasn't educated enough to realize this was untraditional as it was not my first time knitting such a motif. Since then I've learned enough to give folks a little warning when I do this. These slippers do not follow all the traditional Fair Isle rules as there are indeed longer floats that I suggest catching, but I love the freedom this gives when tweaking a motif to fit the purposes of a design. Sometimes you just don't get exactly what you want without pushing boundaries a bit.
I hit my stride with the motif in my first knit of the slipper because charts are awesome, but then came the struggle for how to do the ankle. I experimented with a shorter bootie, buttons, wraps and garter stitch but ultimately landed on a twisted rib with some bonus fabric for the cozy factor. And even after I settled on that, I redid the cuff one more time to get them just so.
These slippers are worked from the toe up with a no-wrap short row heel. I do recommend having some prior colorwork experience before working these slippers. Although the stranding section isn't huge, the longer floats do make it a little trickier to keep your tension steady. If you're not knitting each slipper three times like I did, you'll find these will knit up very quickly, maybe in time for your next lazy morning.
The slipper pattern includes 4 sizes for men and women. I suggest choosing a size that is close to your actual foot circumference instead of smaller as is the norm for socks. The stranding inhibits the fabric stretch a bit but makes them nice and fluffy.
I am very much looking forward to the show later this week and I hope to meet some new faces along with giving hugs to my favorite spinsters!! Love you Rach & Kate and hope you enjoy short Kate's first adventures with your yarn.
As I mentioned last week, during the show you can find me in the YOTH booth. Here are just a few of the samples I will have with me there:
Come say hi! See you at the show! Let's go yarn shopping! Whoop whoop!
Trailing Lace
I love cookies. And Diet Coke, bread, cheese, wine... ok I love food in general. The kitchen is my happy place. As a result, my favorite things to wear tend to be forgiving. So, this new sweater design is just the thing! Trailing Lace is a stunning blousy drop-sleeve pullover that works with whatever you happen to eat that day thanks to the generous 10-15" of positive ease.
I am also very into details. This sweater is worked from the top down and features an asymmetrical lace-cable panel. The repeat is easy to memorize and even if you've never ventured into this type of stitch pattern, you will catch right on.
There are also just a handful of short rows at the bottom to give a slight hi-lo hemline. I am a big fan of a little extra backside coverage. These short rows are quick and easy, so don't be nervous even if you haven't tried them before. Directions are included in the pattern and it is a great opportunity to learn. The delicate neckline is somewhere in the grey area between crew and boat. I wanted it to be wide enough to be springy and breezy but still wanted to fit in the lace-cable panel in full width at the shoulder.
I had a wonderful group of knitters that worked with me on a preview knit for this design, you can already check out a myriad of beautifully finished sweaters in other colors and yarns on Ravelry. While you're over there, you can add the pattern to your queue.
In my sample, I used YOTH Yarns Big Sister in Shiitake. This yarn has beautiful drape and stitch definition. Veronika took these beautiful pictures of her daughter Jasmine for the design and I love how she styled it. Leggings and boots would be great with it too if you're wearing it through the winter in a cold climate.
If you feel like you've seen something similar to this from me before, you might be thinking of Winding Trail. The construction and cut of the adult sweater is completely different but the stitch patterns are very similar. Trailing Lace was inspired by Winding Trail just like the designs from my last book Grown were inspired by other Tot Toppers designs. I find that once I get a look I love, my brain really enjoys adapting it for different audiences. You can totally mommy & me this set.
I'm heading out to Stitches West next week for the third year in a row! You can come see me along with this sweater along with lots of other samples in the YOTH booth. I would love to meet you and to help you pick out some yarn for your next project. :) Trailing Lace was part of a trio of patterns released for YOTH at Stitches; take a look at Thea Colemans gorgeous Agave (hat) and Reposado (tank) designs in the collage below. They will be at the booth too although sadly Thea won't be there this year.
After Stitches, I'm really thinking about starting a KAL for this design. It has been a while since I've hosted a KAL and this one is so tempting since there might be a few folks out there that need some encouragement to try cabling or short rows for the first time. If you'd be interested in a KAL, make sure you are on my mailing list so you'll be notified. Or join up in my Ravelry Group to see all the latest goings-ons on regularly.
Thanks for reading all about my latest design, I would love to hear what you think of this sweater. Leave me a comment, come see me at Stitches, or visit me on instagram!
reGramps Slouch
Last month I got to go to Rhinebeck, NY to the New York Sheep & Wool Festival for the first time ever. I loved everything about it, the landscape, the foliage, the animals, the shopping but more than anything...the people. I got to stay in an incredible old mill house with some beautiful people, inside and out. One of them was willing to be my photographer and another agreed to model the updated version of Gramps Slouch.
This Gramps is modeled by Kate Burge which you will recognize from Spincycle Yarns. I knit the hat in YOTH Daughter and behind the camera was Veronika the multitalented. Daughter has frequented my needles a lot the past few months, I just can't help it. After finishing a new sweater design (forthcoming) with the Natural Oatmeal colorway, I had a skein left and it was too perfect not to use it for a hat makeover.
I changed just a few rounds of the crown shaping at the very top because I decided I wanted to retain the stockinette background instead of the original reverse stockinette. The gauge is tweaked to reflect the yarn change but other than that, the design is the same and now has been added to the KO pop-up shop.
We took these photos outside our house where I really hope I get to go again next year. I treasure my time with these women so much. They are all so inspiring and I constantly wonder how I got lucky enough to be included amidst such a group.
If you purchased a previous version of Gramps Slouch you have access to this updated one too. If you're new to the design, you can find it in my online shop, or on Ravelry, or elsewhere my designs are sold.
And PS, I did finish my own Gramps for Rhinebeck. And yes I wore it even though it was warm! #Rhinebecksweatersuccess
Brochan
Pattern Update: Brochan Slouch
Photography by Erica B. Studio + Design
Yarn: Dragonfly Fibers Traveller & YOTH Big Sister
Styling by Poshture Boutique; click to shop the Vest & Necklace
This bottom-up stranded hat can be worn slouchy (above) or more fitted beanie-style with the brim flipped (below). It is sized for all ages, men or women, boy or girl.
This sassy new sample features a 2-color version (the original pattern features 3) which I utilized with the colors of my Alma Mater, Clemson University. I actually started knitting this one when my husband and I were road tripping to the NCAA College Football Championship game last January. Clemson won so basically this hat brings All the Good Things.
I also used a faux fur pom pom for the first time and I LOVE how fun it is. Plus it is easy and comes out perfect every time, ha!
Brochan is updated with my new format and the 2-color version option; it also includes metric conversions and I was able to make the chart much larger.
The design still includes all the sizes from infant to adult and a couple of the original photos too. Because there were no substantive changes, I decided to include both versions of the pattern in the download. Photo cred below to Veronika Jobe & Kickstand Studio.
The original version is only 2 pages (smaller chart!) and has more pictures of the Child size, so if that suits you better, I figured there was no harm in keeping it available.
Next week I am super excited to be heading to Rhinebeck, NY for the New York Sheep & Wool Festival for the FIRST TIME EVER. I have now completed two Rhinebeck Sweaters...one that is brand stinking new and one of the most challenging patterns just in terms of the writing and grading; it knits really fast but goodness I had to really do a lot of thinking for all the sizes. And the other is a new Gramps Cardigan for ME in YOTH Daughter's new colorway, Natural Oatmeal. Leave me a comment if you have been to the show in the past, are going to the show this year, have any tips for me OR if going is on your bucket list! Come on...that covers most everyone right ;P
Big Sister
Big Sister = comfy, wearable, stealable sweater, never safe from your little sister :) Knit in YOTH Big Sister in Mint
Shown in size S with 3" positive ease
Photography by Veronika, Modeled by Jasmine
In this latest version of Big Sister, I have added options for long sleeves. The original design featured 3/4 length sleeves worn slightly off the shoulder; now you can do whatever you like without having to do any math or extra thinking.
Other than the sleeve option, the design is substantively the same. I like to think it is a little prettier now though!
This sweater is knit from the top down and is seamless. It is suitable for adventurous beginners. This is a great first-sweater project. Skills required include provisional CO, picking up sts and basic increasing and decreasing. Even if you are trying these skills for the first time, I believe this is a great opportunity to give them a try!
You can find the updated version of Big Sister anywhere my designs are sold including my website and Ravelry.
Included that last image just in case you are into some Matchy Matchy...because the wee version of this design came out earlier this fall. Happy knitting!